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August 2020 – TD 316 OPERATING MANUAL – Motus Wave Sensor 5729
2.8
Other wave descriptions
Wave Crest
is the point on a wave with the maximum value or
upward displacement within a cycle
Wave Troughs
is the point on a wave with the minimum or lowest
point in a cycle
Wavelength
is the distance from a certain point on one wave to the
same point on the next wave (e.g. distance between two
consecutive wave crests or between two consecutive wave
troughs).
Figure 2-4: wave descriptions
Wave amplitude
is one half the distances from the crest to the trough. Wave amplitude is a more technical term for
wave height and is used in engineering technology.
Wave frequency
is the number of waves passing a fixed point in a specified period of time. Frequency has units of
waves per second or cycles per second. Another unit for frequency is the Hertz (abbreviated Hz) where 1 Hz is
equivalent to 1 cycle per second.
Wave period
are the time it takes for two successive crests (one wavelength) to pass a specified point.
Wave speed
is the distance the wave travels divided by the time it takes to travel that distance. Wave speed is
determined by dividing the wavelength by the wave period. In symbols c = λ / T
or c =
λ
f
, where c is the wave speed, λ
(lambda) is the wavelength, T is the wave period and f is the wave frequency
Wave Steepness
is the ratio of height to wavelength. When wave steepness exceeds 1:7, breakers are formed. If a
wave has height of 1 meter and a length from crest to crest of 8 meter, then the ratio is 1:8 and this wave is not going to
break. But if the height is 1 meter and the length decreases to 5 meter, then the ratio is 1:5 and this wave has now
become so steep that the crest topples and the wave breaks.