6
TYPICAL DRAIN LINE INSTALLATIONS
INSTALLATION
1. Floor Drain
2. Standpipe
3. Laundry Tub
Provisions should be made to bypass outside hydrants that are not to have filtered water. It is also advisable to install hose bibs on the inlet
and outside of the filter for future testing and service of the equipment. Where heavy sediment from the well is observed, it is advisable
to install a cartridge or bag-style filter immediately upstream from the filter. A nominal micron rating of 50 to 100 is recommended. The
purpose of this is to protect the control valve of any debris from the well. If desired, a cartridge filter may be used after the system as a
polishing filter.
7.
INSTALLING GROUND:
To maintain an electrical ground in metal plumbing of a home’s cold water piping
(such as a copper plumbing system), install a ground clamp or jumper wiring.
NOTE: If replacing an existing unit, also replace the ground clamps/wire. If removing a unit, replace the
piping with the same type of piping as the original to assure plumbing integrity and grounding.
8.
DRAIN LINE:
First, be sure that the drain can handle the backwash rate of the system. Solder joints near the
valve must be done prior to connecting the drain line flow control fitting. Leave at least 6” between the drain
line flow control fitting and solder joints. Failure to do this could cause interior damage to the flow control.
Backwash of an automatic filter can be directed into a septic tank in most cases, but because of the higher
volume of water discharged, care should be taken. The backwash discharge can be directed to a subsurface
drainage system or other safe location. Remember to follow all local codes.
When installing the drain line on any backwashing filter, especially filters that utilize air as the regenerant, hard piping such as PVC, Schedule 80
Plastic or copper is recommended. Remove the drain line nut (if included) and discard. A 3/4” NPT connection on the elbow is provided.
During
backwash, high volumes of water (more than a softener) and air can be expelled. This release of air can cause a thrashing or movement of the
drain line causing it to dislodge from the drain, resulting in water damage. In order to prevent this, it is recommended to use other means of
securing the drain line to the floor, wall or ceiling to avoid this thrashing of piping.
Our patent pending Backwash Air cycle greatly reduces the
chance of this occurring but should not be the only means of protection.
Where the drain line is elevated but empties into a drain below the level of the control valve, form a 7” loop at the discharge end of the line so
that the bottom of the loop is level with the drain connection on the control valve. This will provide an adequate anti-siphon trap. Piping the drain
line overhead <10 ft is normally not a problem. Be sure adequate pressure is available (40-60 psi is recommended). Where the drain empties into
an overhead sewer line, a sink-type trap must be used. Run drain to its discharge point in accordance with plumbing codes. Pay special attention to
codes for air gaps and anti-siphon devices.
CAUTION: Never insert a drain line into a drain, sewer line, or trap. Always allow an air gap of 1-1/2” or twice the pipe diameter, whichever is
greater, between the drain line and the wastewater to prevent the possibility of sewage being back-siphoned into the unit.
SHUTOFF
VALVE
GROUND
STRAP
GROUND STRAP
