3
Softener Location / Other Requirements
Locate the unit near an unswitched, 115 volt / 60 Hz grounded electrical outlet.
Check for distance and proper drain installation (e.g. floor drain, washing machine standpipe).
Determine type and size of piping required for softener connection (e.g. copper, galvanized, PVC plastic).
NOTE :
If household plumbing is galvanized and you intend to make the installation with cooper (or vice versa), obtain
di-electric unions to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion.
CAUTION :
If sweat soldering copper pipe (remember to always use lead free solder and flux), cover yoke or bypass
valve with wet rags to prevent damage to connections and control valve!! If using PVC or plastic pipe,
primers and solvent cements specifically recommended for use with potable water are required.
Installation Procedure
Filling the Tank with Media
Your new softener may or may not have the media in the tank. It will depend on the size of the unit and where it is
shipped from.
If your softener doesn’t have the media in the tank it will come with the unit in separate boxes. If your unit
has the media in the tank, please move to the next step.
To install the media in your new water softener tank you will remove the control valve by turning it counter clockwise. Do
not use tools to remove the valve. The valve can be broken with use of channel locks or pipe wrenches. When the valve
is removed you will need to check the inner distributor tube. The distributor tube will be loose in the tank. You will need to
make sure that it is centered in the tank before installing the media.
Typically it will center in an indentation in the bottom of the tank. Once it is centered, you will need to put duct tape over
the tube to prevent media from getting in the tube during the fill procedure.
