Toro Groundsmaster 4100-D 30411, Руководство оператора

Страница: 57 / 64

Figure 92
1. Cutting Edge 3. Wear/slot Forming
2. Curved Area 4. Crack
3. Examine the cutting edges of all of the blades.
Sharpen the cutting edges if they are dull or nicked.
Sharpen only the top of the cutting edge and
maintain the original cutting angle to make sure
of sharpness (Figure 93). The blade will remain
balanced if the same amount of metal is removed
from both cutting edges.
If the blade is allowed to wear, a slot will form
between the sail and flat part of the blade
(Figure 92). Eventually a piece of the blade
may break off and be thrown from under the
housing, possibly resulting in serious injury to
you or bystanders.
• Inspect the blade periodically for wear or
damage.
• Never try to straighten a blade that is bent
or weld a broken or cracked blade.
• Replace a worn or damaged blade.
Figure 93
1. Sharpen at original angle
Note:
Remove the blades and sharpen them on a
grinder. After sharpening the cutting edges, install
the blade with the anti-scalp cup and blade bolt; refer
to Removing and Installing the Cutter Blade(s).
Correcting Cutting Unit
Mismatch
If there is mismatch between the blades, on a single
cutting unit, the grass will appear streaked when it is cut.
This problem can be corrected by making sure that the
blades are straight and all of the blades are cutting on
the same plane.
1. Using a 3 foot (1 meter) long carpenters level, find
a level surface on the shop floor.
2. Raise the height-of-cut to the highest position; refer
to Adjusting the Height-Of-Cut.
3. Lower the cutting unit onto the flat surface. Remove
the covers from the top of the cutting unit.
4. Loosen the flange nut securing the idler pulley to
release the belt tension.
5. Rotate the blades until the ends face forward and
backward. Measure from the floor to the front tip of
the cutting edge. Remember this dimension. Then
rotate the same blade so that the opposite end is
forward, and measure again. The difference between
57