.
Power-On Turns
Because of the effects of the rotating propeller, models usually turn
better in one direction than the other. Your plans will say which way to
circle.
Don't circle any tighter than necessary. Circles smaller than about 50 ft.
diameter are tricky. If you have plenty of flying space, turns can be as
large as you like.
The drawing shows how side thrust is used to control power-on turning.
Making small changes, 1/32 at a time, adjust downthrust and sidethrust
together to produce smooth flights on 150 winds.
You may notice that turning to the right tends to hold the nose down-
right thrust acting a little like downthrust. If your plane begins to circle so
sharply that it loses altitude in a steep bank, reduce the amount of
sidethrust until the turn opens up to a safer size.
Longer, Higher Flights
When your Classic is flying smoothly with 150 turns in the motor, wind to 175 and try it. Make any necessary noseblock
adjustments, and then wind to 200, and so on. The safe number of turns that your motor will stand is shown below.
Rubber Motor Winding Chart
Length of Loop 1/4"
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
Safe Number of Turns
Hand Wound
180 200 220 235 250 270 290
Stretch Wound 440 485 525 570 615 660 700
A plane's weight determines how much power it needs. If your ship is huskier than average, it may not climb, even when fully
wound. In that case, add one strand (not a complete loop) of 1/8" Sig rubber to the motor. Tie an eye (like a slip knot) in each
end. This will provide the extra horse power needed for higher climb.
Whenever you add rubber, re-balance your model as outlined in the pre-flight instructions. Additional rubber tends to make a
plane tail heavy.
Take-Offs
When your Classic has been adjusted according to instructions, it should have no trouble taking off by itself from a smooth
surface. No adjustment changes should be necessary. You may find that take-offs are better if you release the ship pointed at a
slight angle to the wind instead of headed straight into it. Experiment to find the best system.
Rubber Motor Hints
The rubber motor in your Classic kit will safely give you a whole season of flying if you stick to the chart. "Hand Wound" means
winding the propeller with your finger while the rubber is inside of the fuselage. "Stretch winding" is a more complicated two-
man operation, but gives longer flights.
Before a motor can be safely stretch wound, it must be lubricated. Rub a few drops of Sig Rubber lubricant into the rubber
(AFTER the knot has been securely tied). Use just enough to make the motor barely damp. If it's too juicy, it will splatter all over
the inside of the fuselage. Next, make a strong wire hook, like a teacup hook, and lock it VERY TIGHTLY in the chuck of a hand
drill.
Then, while your helper holds the model by the rear rubber peg and the cowling, stretch the motor out the front of the model to
about twice its normal length, unhook the propeller, hook up the winder, and wind while slowly walking back toward the plane.