.
2.
Next, build the right and left wings over the plans. The spar, and the leading and trailing edges all rest against the center
section but are not glued to it.
Cut two C-3 pieces from 1/16"x3/16" strip balsa, using the pattern on the plans.
Before installing the W-1 ribs, set the two C-3s in place on top of the center section frame, one on each side of the
spars. Now fit W-1s in place. If the ribs don't slide easily over the spars and C-3s, enlarge the notches in the ribs
until they do. Then cement W-1s to the wing panels but not to C-1, C-2, or C-3. Don't cement anything to C-3 yet.
Don't forget to cement gussets W-7 in place.
When the wing panels are dry, loosen them from the plastic protecting your plans and lift them away from the
center section, leaving it still pinned firmly in place.
While the panels are off the work bench, round the leading edges with a sandpaper block and do any other
necessary touch-up work with glue and sandpaper.
3.
Now the panels are ready to be attached to the center section. Cut out the cardboard dihedral jigs and bend over
the ends as shown.
Use white glue for this job, and work with one panel at a time. Put small dabs of glue in the following places: on the
inner ends of the leading edge, trailing edge, and spar; on C-2 where C-3 will sit; and on W-1 where it will touch C-
2. Then put the C-3 pieces and the wing panel back in their original positions over the plans.
Lift up the tip of the wing and slide a dihedral jig to the location shown on the plans. Be sure that the inner end of
the wing fits neatly against the center section and that it rests flat on the plans. Don't use pins or heavy weights to
hold it in place - they might cause a permanent twsit in your wing. A small weight, like a quarter, resting above each
W-7 may be helpful.
When the wing panel is resting naturally in place, and the glue has begun to set, take a sharp stick and carefully
spread a film of cement all along the crack between each C-3 and the wing spar.
Let these joints dry well and then attach the other wing panel in the same way. Then add the small 1/16" square
strip on top of C-1 to round out the leading edge of the center section.
When all joints have had plenty of time to dry, the wing can be removed from the work bench.
Round the leading edge of the center section and your wing is ready to cover.
IMPORTANT: As soon as your Tiger's wing is lifted from the bench, take your glue stick and coat all C-3 joints.
Spread a skin of glue over all the cracks between C-3 and mating parts - anywhere that a C-3 touches another
piece: at C-2, at the notch in W-1, and all around the outside edge of C-3 where it lays against the wing spar.
Covering
If you Inspect the covering material carefully, you can see that the tissue has a "grain", like a piece of balsa. The fibers all run
the same direction. Covering is much easier if you attach the tissue with the fibers running the long way of the framework -
nose-to-tail on the fuselage, tip~to-tip on the wing and tail.
Cover the wing and tail on both sides with light-colored tissue. Each side of the fin and stabilizer can be covered with one piece.
The top surface of the wing will have to be done with several small pieces near the tip. Do not cover the bottom of the center
section.