.
To reduce the chances of warping, it's best not to water shink or dope the wing and tail. The paper will tighten slowly anyway as
the result of weather changes. The fuselage can be covered in large sections - but use as many pieces as necessary to get a
smooth job. The fuselage covering can be tightened with a fine water spray and given a coat or two of Sig Lite-Coat Dope if you
like.
Windshield And Windows
Cut out the windshield pattern from the plans and tape it to the clear plastic. Then cut out the plastic windshield. Fit the
windshield to the cabin as shown on the plans, and hold it in place with three pieces of masking tape - one at the top, and one
on each side.
Here's a trick that makes attaching a windshield much easier. Once the plastic is fitted smoothly in place and held with tape,
don't ever take it completely off again. While you're working on the right ear, leave the left and center flaps taped down. Then
tape the right ear down again before you loosen one of the others.
The side flaps will overhang the window framework and will have to be trimmed to fit. Don't try to mark on the plastic. Lay a
small strip of tape along the line where you want to cut, then loosen the ear and trim with scissors.
Cementing the plastic to the fuselage is done in three steps. Use Sig-Ment or contact cement - white glue doesn't stick well to
plastic. Loosen the tape holding the center windshield flap to the top of the fuselage only. Lift the flap and apply a thin coat of
cement to the spacer beneath. Then tape the flap down again.
Do the side flaps one at a time in the same way, but allow each flap to dry before starting on the next.
Cut side windows to shape and cement carefully in place. It's not necessary to remove the tissue under these glue joints. Dark
colored tissue can be used to trim the window outlines and cover up the cemented edges of the plastic.
Assembly
Never cement parts to the tissue covering. Always remove a small patch of paper to expose the bare wood underneath before
attaching another part. It's stronger, and better looking, too.
The easiest way to do this job is to cut the tissue carefully around the area where the glue joint is to be made, loosen it with a
drop of dope thinner, and then lift off the patch with a pin.
Cement the 1/16"x1/8"x1/8" incidence block to the fuselage and then cement the stabilizer in place with three small spots of
cement. DO NOT FORGET THE INCIDENCE BLOCK.
Cement the fin to the rear of the fuselage with two spots of glue and to the front of the stabilizer with one spot. Look from the
front of the fuselage to be sure that the fin points straight forward.
Attach the wing to the fuselage with six cement spots.
FLYING YOUR SIG CLASSIC
Now you are ready to fly your plane, and FLYING is what the Sig Classic models are designed for. Most models as realistic
looking as your Classic make poor flyers. They're often tricky to adjust and clumsy in the air. But Sig's Classic kits give you
three important features that assure you of successful flights:
1. A PROVEN flyable design.
2. A reliable way to make flight adjustments.
3. Complete flying instructions.
Read and follow these instructions carefully. They are the key to satisfying flying.
Testing And Adjusting
You have invested a lot of time and effort in building your model, don't waste it all now with careless testing. Most models fail to
fly because of poor adjustment, not poor craftsmanship. Be as careful in your testing as you were in your building.
Every model is a little different and needs its own special set of adjustments. Contest winning flyers make dozens, even
hundreds, of test flights "trimming" a model for best performance. So don't give up if your first flights aren't perfect.