SIG Tiger SIGFF22 Classic Series Скачать руководство пользователя страница 2

.

 

MAIN CONSTRUCTION

 

Building The Fuselage

 

Start on the main frame of the fuselage, but while you are waiting for the glue to dry on the large parts, build some of the 
small assemblies - then they will be ready to use when you need them.  

Build one Bulkhead B-4 over the plans and lightly cement the temporary brace to it while it is still pinned to the plans.  

Cut five 3/32" square cabin spacers to length shown and set them aside with B-4 to be used later.  

All three nose formers, B-1, B-2 and B-3, are made from two thicknesses of balsa for extra strength. Cement them 
together exactly as shown - matching carefully with the drawings. When dry, pin them over the drawings and mark the 
stringer locations as illustrated.  

Cement together two N-1s and the two "plugs" from Former B-1 to make the plug-in noseblock. Use B-1 as a pattern 
when cementing the plug in place. The noseblock will be completed later.  

Bend the landing gear wire and glue it between two L-1s, following the instructions on the plans.  

Assembly of the tailskid is also described on the plans. 

 

Main Fuselage

 

The fuselage side frames are built entirely of 3/32" square balsa. Select strips of the same hardness for the longerons. 
Then the right and left sides will bend equally, giving a true, accurate fuselage.  

Build the two frames one on top of the other over the shaded outlines on the plans. When they are dry, remove from the 
plans and very carefully separate the sides from each other with a thin razor blade. Then add F-1, F-2 and F-3 to each 
frame.  

Now is the time to mark the Balance Point on the outside of each frame.  

You are now ready to join the sides together to form a box structure.  

Turn the frames upside-down over the top view of the fuselage, resting the flat area where the wing mounts on the plans. 
Match up the sides with the plans in the wing mounting area, and hold with pins. Cement Bulkhead B-4, and then the five 
cabin spacers in place. Lightly cement two 3/32" square diagonal pieces across the inside of the cabin - one on top and 
one on the bottom. This strong fuselage box gives an accurate start for your Tiger's fuselage assembly.  

Cut the front and rear fuselage clamps from the cardboard sheet.  

Cement the rear ends of the fuselage frames together and push the rear clamp over the ends far enough to hold them 
until the cement dries. Complete the rear end of the fuselage by cutting the remaining three pairs of 3/32" square 
fuselage spacers to proper length and cementing them in place.  

Cement the front ends of the fuselage sides in the grooves in the edge of B-1. Slide the front clamp over the nose to hold 
while the cement dries. Now cement B-2 and B-3 to the top of the nose and add the corresponding 3/32" square spacers 
on the bottom.  

When glue is dry, remove the fuselage from the plans and add the three 1/16" square stringers to the nose.  

Round the noseblock roughly to shape with your sandpaper block, then plug it into the fuselage and sand to final shape - 
matching the lines of the fuselage and the shape shown on the plans.  

Enlarge the center hole in the noseblock with a drill or small nail and cement the two eyelets in place. Be sure the 
propeller shaft turns freely in the completed noseblock assembly.  

Cement the landing gear assembly in place and reinforce with gussets L-2 glued to L-1 and to the inside of the fuselage 
frames. Use plenty of cement on these joints.  

Install the tailskid assembly. Now your Tiger's fuselage is complete. The three temporary diagonal pieces in the cabin 
area can be cut loose and thrown away. 

 

Tail Surfaces

 
Build the fin and stabilizer over the plans, using wood sizes and die-cut parts called for. Make joints accurately to reduce 
warping when the frames are covered.
 

Wing

 
The wing is built in three steps. First, a center section is built as a foundation. Then the right and left wing panels are assembled 
- matched to the center section, but not glued to it. The final step is attaching the two panels to the center section at the correct 
dihedral angle.
 
1.

 
Accurately build the flat rectangular center section frame from pieces of 1/16"x1/8" balsa strip. These pieces are called C-1 
and C-2 on the plans. Push a couple of pins through the C-2s to hold the frame down securely. This frame is not removed 
from the plans until the wing is completely assembled.

Содержание Tiger SIGFF22 Classic Series

Страница 1: ...eces Hold the parts in place over the plans with pins on each side not through the middle If balsa strips must be bent soak them first in water Use lots of pins to hold the curved shape Allow to dry overnigh t before cementing other parts to them Don t Hurry When a part has been soaked or cemented wait for it to dry completely before going ahead While that assembly is drying work on some other par...

Страница 2: ...elage box gives an accurate start for your Tiger s fuselage assembly Cut the front and rear fuselage clamps from the cardboard sheet Cement the rear ends of the fuselage frames together and push the rear clamp over the ends far enough to hold them until the cement dries Complete the rear end of the fuselage by cutting the remaining three pairs of 3 32 square fuselage spacers to proper length and c...

Страница 3: ... of the wing fits neatly against the center section and that it rests flat on the plans Don t use pins or heavy weights to hold it in place they might cause a permanent twsit in your wing A small weight like a quarter resting above each W 7 may be helpful When the wing panel is resting naturally in place and the glue has begun to set take a sharp stick and carefully spread a film of cement all alo...

Страница 4: ...lue joints Dark colored tissue can be used to trim the window outlines and cover up the cemented edges of the plastic Assembly Never cement parts to the tissue covering Always remove a small patch of paper to expose the bare wood underneath before attaching another part It s stronger and better looking too The easiest way to do this job is to cut the tissue carefully around the area where the glue...

Страница 5: ... to the nose or tail until it DOES hang level Don t be afraid to add the necessary weight CORRECT BALANCE IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN LIGHT WEIGHT Modeling clay makes handy balancing weight it can be pressed permanently in any corner Wire solder or BB shot can be used by cementing in place If one blade of your propeller always swings to the bottom a tiny smear of clay on the other tip will improve the ...

Страница 6: ... cut the fin loose and re cement it at the desired angle When the glide is smooth and steady you are ready to go on to powered tests Power On Flight ALL ADJUSTMENTS TO THE WOUND UP PART OF THE FLIGHT ARE MADE BY POINTING THE PROPELLER AND NOSEBLOCK IN THE DIRECTION YOU WANT THE PLANE TO GO This kind of adjustment affects only the powered flight and will not upset the glide pattern you have develop...

Страница 7: ...e loop of 1 8 Sig rubber to the motor Tie an eye like a slip knot in each end This will provide the extra horse power needed for higher climb Whenever you add rubber re balance your model as outlined in the pre flight instructions Additional rubber tends to make a plane tail heavy Take Offs When your Classic has been adjusted according to instructions it should have no trouble taking off by itself...

Страница 8: ...u encounter any problem building this kit or discover any missing or damaged parts please feel free to contact us by mail or telephone SIG MFG CO INC 401 7 South Front Street Montezuma IA 50171 0520 SIG MODELER S ORDERLINE to order parts 1 800 247 5008 SIG MODELER S HOTLINE for technical support 1 641 623 0215 SIG WEB SITE www sigmfg com Copyright SIG Mfg Co Inc SIG MFG CO INC Montezuma Iowa 50171...

Отзывы: