After covering your iron, the next step is to set the iron to the cor-
rect temperature. This is critical for achieving a good result! The
iron should be set to about
220
O
F - 250
O
F (104
O
C - 121
O
C)
as
measured on the bottom of the iron using a thermometer.
If you do not have a thermometer, you can find the correct tem-
perature by trial and error. Set your iron to a medium setting.
Glide the iron over some of the covering that is over solid wood,
such as the sheeted wing center section. Observe the covering
to see if any bubbles appear. If bubbles appear, the covering is
getting too hot! Turn down the temperature of the iron and repeat
the test.
If no bubbles appear, turn up the heat slightly and repeat the test.
Keep adjusting until you “zero in” on the correct temperature. Find
the temperature that will get the covering to stick down without
forming bubbles or causing the seams to pull away.
Once your iron is set to the correct temperature, go over the entire
framework of the airplane, making sure that the covering is se-
curely bonded to the structure everywhere the covering comes in
contact with the wood underneath. This takes some time, but is
worth the effort.
After you have all the covering secured onto the solid areas, turn
the temperature of the iron up to approximately
300
O
F - 320
O
F
(149
O
C - 160
O
C)
. This is the correct temperature for shrinking the
covering material.
Use the iron to tighten up any wrinkles in the “open” areas of the
model (no wood underneath the covering). Glide the iron over the
wrinkle for a few seconds, then remove. Repeat until the covering
is tight with no wrinkles.
If wrinkles keep coming back on the tail surfaces, you may need
to “ventilate” the areas between the ribs. Otherwise the air that is
sealed in those relatively small areas will expand when the heat
is applied and actually cause the covering to stretch instead of
shrink. Use a pin to poke a tiny hole in the covering between each
rib, on the bottom of the part. That will let the expanding air es-
cape and the covering to shrink properly.
Caution When Using Heat Guns: You can also use a hobby-type
heat gun to shrink the covering, but you must be careful around
seams or color joints. Getting too much heat on the seams may
cause them to "creep" or come loose. You must also be careful
when using a heat gun when working around the windshield and
side windows - heat will distort the clear plastic material.
Recommended Temperatures:
To adhere the covering - 220
O
F - 250
O
F (104
O
C - 121
O
C)
To shrink the covering - 300
O
F - 320
O
F (149
O
C - 160
O
C)
NOTE:
In this manual, any references to right or left, refer to your
right or left as if you were seated in the cockpit of the airplane.
The wings are designed as a 2-piece system, with separate right
and left wing panels joined by an aluminum tube Wing Joiner and
a hardwood locating Pin at the rear. Due to the high strength of
the wing joiner tube, the wing panels do not need to be perma-
nently glued together. Gluing them permanently together is op-
tional - your call. The obvious benefit to leaving the wing panels
separate is the fact that they can be easily transported or stored,
requiring a minimum of space.
To help protect your wings during the following steps we recom-
mend that you cover your work surface with a soft cloth or piece
of foam.
INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVOS
For the following steps you will need:
(1) Right Wing Panel
(1) Left Wing Panel
(1) Aluminum Tube Wing Joiner
(2) Servos with Mounting Screws (not furnished)
(2) 6” Servo Extension Chords (not furnished)
(1) Servo Y- Harness (not furnished)
❑
1) Mount the aileron servos in the bottom of each wing panel.
a) The servo bays are precut for you but you’ll want to double
check the covering around the cutout to make sure it is sealed
down tight.
b) Install the rubber grommets and brass eyelets (supplied with
your radio system) into each aileron servo.
c) Install the control arms on the two aileron servos. The arms
should be at 90 degrees to the servo when the aileron control stick
on the transmitter is in neutral and the transmitter trims are in neu-
tral as well.
d) Before installing the aileron servos in the wing panels you
must attach a servo extension chord to the aileron servo wire. The
typical combined length required is approximately18”. A 6” exten-
sion chord will usually provide sufficient length. Plug the servo
plug into the extension chord and tape the plugs together for
added security.
e) Holding the wing panel with the wingtip UP, drop the end of
the extension chord into the servo mount cutout and then thru the
openings in the wing ribs, working it towards to the center end of
the wing panel. The plug on the end of the extension chord will
occasionally get hung up on the ribs, however by turning or gently
shaking the wing panel you can get it to fall through the openings
in the ribs, until it emerges at the end rib. Once you’ve got the
plug to the end rib, direct it through the round hole in the bottom
surface of the wing panel. By that time, the servo itself should be
next to the servo mount cutout and ready for mounting.
f) Fit the servo into the servo mount in the wing panel, (note
that the servo is positioned so that the servo arm is at the forward
end toward the wing leading edge). Take up any slack in the servo
chord as you insert the servo in the mount. Use a pin vise and a
small drill bit to drill small pilot holes in the servo mount for the
servo mounting screws. Use the screws supplied with your radio
4
WING ASSEMBLY