ENGINE AND TANK INSTALLATION:
This instruction sequence will install both the fuel tank and the
engine. Therefore, you will need the following:
Engine (with muffler removed) - not included
Assembled Fuel Tank
Motor Mount Assembly (4-piece)*
4 - PM4 x 22mm Bolts
4 - M4 Washers
2 - Black Foam Rubber Pads - 10mm (7/16") x 80mm
(3-1/8") x 200mm (7-7/8")
2 - 9" Lengths of Silicon Fuel Tubing - not included
4 - 6-32 x 1" Socket Head Bolts - not included
4 - 6-32 Lock Nuts - not included
4 - #6 Washers - not included
(*NOTE: The motor mount system provided in the kit can be used
in two ways - with or without the adjustable bases. The two bases
can be used when you need a little more mounting arm length for
your engine. This could be the case when working with larger
4-stroke engines. However, typical 2-stroke engines do not need
this extra length. In this case the mounting bases can be set aside
and not used.)
❑
1) The fuel tank is installed first. Apply a bead of silicon sealer
around the neck of the fuel tank and install it into the fuel
compartment, aligning the neck with the round hole in the firewall.
Press the neck into the firewall hole. Cut two 2-1/2" pieces of foam
rubber from one of the pads. Press these in place in the tank
compartment, one on each side of the tank (a long screwdriver is
handy when inserting and positioning these foam pieces). Insert
the remaining piece of cut foam into the tank compartment, on top
of the tank. These foam pads will hold the tank nicely in place and
resist vibration. Allow the silicon sealant to cure before applying
any pressure to the fuel lines.
NOTE:
The engine compartment was fuel proofed during
production of the airplane. However, for a little extra insurance,
you could give the engine compartment an additional coat of
surfacing resin. If you decide to do this, use a brush to apply the
resin and be sure to brush the resin up to the covering edges.
❑
2) Apply a little thread-locking compound to the four
PM4 x 22mm bolts and install the two motor mount arms to the
firewall - do not tighten in place yet. As mentioned earlier, these
arms can be positioned to adjust to the width of the engine's
crankcase. Place your engine on the motor mount arms and move
the arms as needed to accept the engine. Also, center the engine
to the fuselage in the top view. When everything appears correct,
tighten the bolts, securing the mounts to the firewall.
❑
3) Use a punch or pencil to mark the engine's mounting bolt
locations directly onto the motor mount arms. Remove the engine
and drill the four required holes in the mounts for your engine. If
you are using 6-32 x 1" bolts and lock nuts (not supplied) to mount
your engine, use a 5/32" dia bit for the clearance holes. Do not drill
and tap these motor mounts. Doing so may weaken them. Use a
little thread-locking compound on all bolts when assembling these
components. The muffler should be mounted after the throttle
linkage has been made in the following section.
❑
4) Some engine configurations have rear-mounted, remote
needle valve assemblies. If you are using this type of engine, you
will have to likely drill a hole in the side of the fuselage to allow the
needle valve to clear. Be sure to fuel proof any exposed wood in
such holes with epoxy resin, clear dope, etc.
RADIO INSTALLATION:
IMPORTANT: Carefully note that the factory installed rudder and
elevator pushrod tubes built into the fuselage, cross each other in
the tail area, making their exits on the opposite side. Looking
down on top of the fuselage, with the nose forward, the rudder
servo is in the right servo tray cut-out and the elevator servo is the
left cut-out. The rudder pushrod exits the rear of the fuselage on
the left side, the elevator pushrod exits on the right.
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