.
120. Remove the covering material from the
top of the stabilizer and fuselage where
the fin makes contact. Epoxy glue the fin
in place. Use a square to make sure that
the fin is perpendicular to the stabilizer.
Developed from the start to take advantage of the popular cyanoacrylate
adhesives, EASYHINGES are fast, strong, and lightweight. With these hinges,
there is finally a solution to the dreaded, tedious job of hinging control surfaces.
No more gouging and picking to make oversize slots in the wood. No more
messy epoxies to bind up the hinge joint. Simply follow the instructions here
(which may very well take longer to read than to do!) and you will probably
never want to use another type of hinge again.
Hinging Instructions
1. Use the plans to mark the hinge locations on the tail surfaces. Marks
made with a felt-tip pen can later be wiped off the plastic covering.
2. Next, using a #11 X-Acto
blade (or similar) cut a slot
approximately 1/2" in depth
and slightly wider than the
hinge. Continue cutting all of
the slots in both pieces to be
hinged.
3. After all slots have been cut,
insert an EASYHINGE
halfway into each slot in one of the pieces to be hinged. Then carefully
slide the matching model part onto the other half of the hinges. You'll
find it easiest to slide the part onto the hinges at an angle, one hinge at
a time, instead of trying to push it straight onto all the hinges at once.
4. At this point the surface to be
hinged is attached but not
glued. Align the two surfaces
and adjust the gap between
them as required. For best
control response, the gap
should generally be as small
as possible but big enough to
allow the control surface to
move to the maximum
deflection that you will
require.
5. Place three or four drops of
any brand cyanoacrylate
adhesive (thinnest variety)
directly onto the EASY
HINGE in the gap. You will
notice that the glue is quickly
wicked into the slot as it
penetrates both the wood and
the hinge. Continue this
process, gluing the same side
of all of the hinges. Then turn
the surfaces over and repeat the gluing process on the other side of
each hinge.
6. After the glue has cured, approximately five minutes, the joint can be
flexed. You may notice a slight stiffness in the joint. This can be
eliminated by flexing the surface to full deflection each direction a
couple of dozen times. Don't worry about shortening the life of the hinge
as they are almost indestructible.
NOTE: The photos show the hinges being installed on a sample piece of bare
wood. For your Riser, we recommend that the surfaces be covered before
hinging. Simply cut the slots and proceed with the steps described below as if
the covering wasn't even there!
121.
Glue the two 5/32"x3" wing hold-down
dowels into the holes you drilled earlier.
The exposed ends of the dowels can be
painted to match the covering, if you
wish.
122.
Use epoxy to glue the formed wire
towhook and the hardwood towhook
block in place on the fuselage.
NOTE: If you would prefer to use a
commercially-available adjustable
towhook, install it now on the plywood
towhook base plate.
COVERING
The RISER design is ideally suited to
use a plastic iron-on covering material.
Although other brands will work, we
recommend Sig Supercoat Covering for
its light weight, low cost, and ease of
application. To cover the RISER, you will
need at least two rolls of Supercoat. For
that finishing touch, use Sig Super Trim
self-adhesive trim sheets to add a bit of
trim color.
If you choose another brand of covering
material, be sure to read the
manufacturer's directions that come with
the material.