SIG RASCAL FORTY, Инструкция по сборке

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thread it in place - simple!)
Slip the opposite end of the pushrod into the outer tube exit at the
left rear of the fuselage and push it into the servo compartment.
Thread a metal control link onto the stud, centering the threads to
allow equal adjustment in either direction. Use a hobby knife to
remove the screw base from one of the nylon control horn and
snap the control link into the outboard hole in the horn. Use a
piece of masking tape to position and hold the rudder in neutral to
the vertical fin.
Hold the base of the control horn to the rudder, lining up the holes
in the horn with the rudders hinge line. In this position, use a
pencil to mark the two hole locations in the horn onto the surface
of the rudder. Push the horn and pushrod out of the way and
use a 3/32” dia. bit to drill two parallel mounting holes through
the rudder.
Mount the control horn to the rudder using two
M2 x 3/4” bolts and the nylon screw base piece. The excess
bolt material can be removed with diagonal cutters and filed
smooth.
❑
2) Remove the pushrod tube from the fuselage. Re-insert the
unprepared end of the pushrod into the fuselage from the servo
compartment, with the stud and metal link at the rudder servo.
Connect the metal link to the outer-most servo arm hole. Make
sure the rudder servo is in “neutral” - turn the radio system on if
necessary.
Thread another M2 x 7/8” stud into another metal link. Attach the
link and stud to the rudder control horn. Line-up the stud with the
pushrod and use a marker pen to mark the nylon pushrod where
it will be cut to accept 1/4” of the exposed threads of the stud.
Remove the metal link from the rudder horn and pull the pushrod
back out of the fuselage from the servo compartment. Remove the
stud from the metal link.
Use the mark just made to cut the
pushrod to final length.
Use an electric drill to thread the stud into the trimmed end of the
pushrod. Re-insert the pushrod into its tube housing from the
servo compartment. Connect the metal link to the servo output
arm and attach the arm to the servo in the neutral position. Thread
the remaining metal link onto the exposed end of the stud at the
rear of the fuselage. Thread the link as needed to line it up with
the holes in the nylon control horn. Snap the metal link into the
nylon horn (the outer hole is the one we used). Remove the tape
holding the rudder in neutral to the vertical fin.
The rudder pushrod is now complete, perhaps needing only small
final adjustments. At this point we suggest carefully applying a
drop of thin CA glue to the metal control link and its threaded stud
in the servo compartment. This secures the metal link to the stud,
preventing unwanted trim changes due to the twisting of the
pushrod. Small link adjustments can be made with the metal link
at the rudder horn. NOTE: We use and highly recommend short
lengths of medium silicon fuel tubing over the arms of the all the
metal links, keeping them securely in place to the servo arms and
nylon control horns. This safety measure should be done to all
such connections on this, or any other aircraft.
❑
3) The two tailwheel centering springs are now attached to the
tailwheel steering bracket (just above the tailwheel itself) and the
aluminum spring centering horn mounted earlier to the bottom of
the rudder. These springs are installed and bent to impart just a
little tension on the tailwheel bracket. Install the two springs as
shown, making sure the tailwheel is facing exactly forward when
the rudder is in neutral.
❑
4) The elevator pushrod is made in exactly the same way as
the rudder pushrod. Be sure to tape the elevators in “neutral” at
each side of the stabilizer before cutting the nylon pushrod to final
length.
❑
5) As mentioned earlier, the throttle pushrods will be different
for 4-stroke engines. This is due to the typical location of their
carburetors and throttle arms. These steps will cover both 2 and
4-stroke throttle pushrods, beginning with 2-stroke set-ups.
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