.
Some Rules To Follow
Cut all long pieces of balsa first, followed by medium lengths before cutting up any full-length strips into short pieces.
Remove die-cut pieces from the sheets carefully. If difficulty is encountered, do not force the part from the sheet. Use a
modeling knife to cut it free. Leave parts in the sheets until needed in construction.
A piece of Celotex-type wallboard wakes a handy building board, into which pins can easily be pushed. Lay the building
board on a table with a flat and untwisted top. Pins can be pushed through all pieces in the kit without any lasting damage.
Don't be afraid to use plenty of pins when planking. The holes will fill up during sanding and doping.
Wax paper should be used to protect the plan during building when the glue used is epoxy or an alphatic resin glue such
as Sig-Bond.
The plan paper can shrink and expand with temperature and humidity changes, as much as 1/4" the long way. This can
cause minor mismatching but will not seriously affect fit of the parts, patterns for which were taken from the original ink
drawings. The finished assembly need not match the printed plan perfectly to a fraction of an inch. Small variations will not
affect the model's flying characteristics in any way. Be careful where you use a ball point pen for making marks. If not
sanded off, these marks will bleed through many coats of dope and show on the finished model.
You Can't Get Along Without a Good Sanding Block
An indispensable tool for proper construction is a large sanding block sized
to take a full sheet of sandpaper. Use several wood screws along one edge
to hold the sheet in place. Use the block to bring all parts and sticks to final,
exact fit. We recommend 80-grit garnet paper for use on the block during
general construction. You can switch to 100-grit, followed by 220 silicone
paper for final finish just before covering.
In addition to the large block, there are places where a smaller one is
handy. Also, a sandpaper "file" can be made by gluing sandpaper to a flat
spruce stick for working tight-places. We have an especially handy extra
long sanding block made from a 40 inch piece of aluminum channel with sandpaper glued to it that is particularly useful
for jobs like truing up the leading edge and trailing edge of the wing core.
Cutting Out Printed Parts
A jig saw is best for this job. Cut just outside the lines, leaving all of the black line on the part. When fitting the part into
place in the model, use the sanding block to bring the edges to an exact fit. If a modeling knife is used to cut out the parts,
don't cut too close to the lines - leave some extra wood outside the line. True up and finish the edge with the sanding
block.
About The Building Sequence
The quickest and most efficient way to complete a model is to work on several pieces at the same time. While the glue is
drying on one section you can start on or proceed with another part. Work can even go forward on several sections of the
same assembly at the same time, such as the front and rear of the fuselage. We occasionally get suggestions that our
instruction books should be in exact step-by-step building sequence. But this would result in many sentences starting,
"While the glue is drying on the fuselage, move to the wing ... etc." and a lot of jumping back and forth between
assemblies with no consistent pictorial progression. Also, a pre-selected building sequence by our choice might not suit
your workshop space and time allotments. Therefore, we feel the present system of covering main assemblies in a unit
works out best for the majority of kit builders. So keep in mind that the numbering sequence used in this book was chosen
as the best way of explaining the building of each major assembly and is not intended to be followed in exact one-two-
three fashion. Start on the fuselage at No.1 and after performing a step or two, flip over to the next main heading of "WING
CONSTRUCTION" and do a step or two there, then back to "FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION" and so forth. You will, of
course, arrive at points where you can go no farther until another component is available. The way to understand these
relationships is to read the instructions completely and study the full size plan before beginning to work.
Any reference to right or left refers to right or left as if seated in the cockpit.
Page 2 of 14
Sig Hummer SIGRC50 Instruction Manual