Side-Power SEP 120/215T, Инструкция по установке и эксплуатации

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9 SEP120/215T
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SEP150/215T
1.0.0-2010
Tunnelinstallering
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Sleipner Motor anbefaler at innstøping av glassfibertunnelen utføres
av kyndig personell. Denne instruksjons manualen gir ikke detaljerte
opplysninger om glassfiberstøpning. Problemer som skyldes instal -
lering er installatørens fulle ansvar.
Bestem plassering av tunnelen ut i fra informasjonen gitt tidligere i ma -
nualen, og de angitte mål for thrusteren du skal installere.
Merk av senter på tunnelen på babord og styrbord side. Bor et 6 mm
vannrett hull, på begge sider (Fig. 1).
Bøy til og tilpass en 5 mm stålstang, som vist på fig. 2 der den tilbake -
bøyde enden skal markere tunnelens radius. Stikk enden inn å marker
tunnelens ytre diameter, skjær ut hullet med en stikksag (Fig. 2).
Puss av gelcoat og polyester så glassfiberen ligger bar i et 12 cm stort
område rundt tunnel hullet. Dette må gjøres på innsiden og utsiden av
skroget, før tunnelen støpes fast i skroget (Fig. 3).
Sett inn tunnelen å marker hvor det skal kappes for å passe i skroget
(Fig. 4). Hvis det skal støpes en spoiler i forkant av tunnelen bør en del av
tunnelen stikke ut i for og underkant av skroget for å støpe spoileren mot
(Side 10, Fig. 2). Kapp tunnelen i ønsket størrelse. Slip lett med slipepa-
pir, og vask med aceton der hvor det skal støpes med glassfiber.
NB ! Det må ikke støpes der hvor thrusteren skal monteres.
Støp fast tunnelen først på innsiden av skroget, bruk minst 8 lag med 300
g Glassfibermatte, og polyester. Ved bruk av alternative materialer, glass -
fiber matter eller rovingtyper (Se s. 10, Fig. 1). Hvis tunnelåpningene
avrundes til den optimale 10% radius må ofte legge ekstra lag med polyes -
ter glassfibermatte på innersiden av tunnelen, for å oppnå riktig tykkelse i
forhold til skrogtykkelsen.
NB ! Forsikre deg om at overgangene mellom tunel og skrog er nøye
sammenstøpt. På steder en ikke kommer til med vanlige lag med polyes-
ter/glassfiber matte, sørg for og lage en blanding av polyester og glass -
fiber, som fylles i dette.
Tunnel installation
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Fig. 1
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 2
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We recommend that a professional does the fibreglass fitting of the
tunnel. These instructions are only general, and do not explain in
any way the details of fibreglass work. Problems caused by faulty
installation of the tunnel, are the installers full responsibility.
Find the position in the boat considering the information given earlier in
this manual and the applicable measurements for the thruster model you
are installing.
Mark the centre of the tunnel on both sides. Drill a 6mm hole horizontally
in these marks (Fig. 1).
Bend a ø 5mm steel bar as shown with the “tip” bent back at the tunnel
radius and mark the circle for the tunnel opening (outside diameter of the
tunnel). Cut the hole with a jigsaw (Fig. 2).
Grind off the gelcoat and polyester so that you are down in the “real fibre
-
glass” in an area of 12cm around the hole both inside and outside in the
hull to cast the tunnel to the hull (Fig. 3).
Insert the tunnel and mark its shape to fit the hull (Fig. 4). (if you are in -
stalling with a deflector/spoiler, leave a part or the tunnel of the front- and
underside of the tunnel to have a base for this (see page 10, Fig. 2). Cut
the tunnel ends to the desired shape and lightly sand its surface and
clean with acetone or similar where you are going to apply fibreglass.
NB! Do not cast/glass on the area were the thruster will be placed.
Then cast the tunnel to the inside of the hull, use at least 8 layers of 300 g
glass and resin, preferably alternating mat and rowing types of fibreglass
(see page 10, Fig. 1). If you are rounding the tunnel ends to the perfect
10% radius you may in some cases have to make further layers inside to
preserve the desired hull thickness.
NB! Make sure that any gap between the tunnel and the hull are com-
pletely filled with resin/fibreglass. In areas where you can not access to
make normal layers of resin/fibreglass, a resin/ fibreglass mixture must be
filled in that area.
16
SP 75 Ti / SP 95 Ti / SP 125 Ti
2.5.1- 2007
Segelboote weisen häufig einen Rumpf in Rennform auf, was
einen sehr flachen Rumpf im Bugbereich bedeutet. Es ist daher
schwierig oder fast unmöglich, den Tunnel an der gewünschten
(effektivsten) Stelle, also möglichst weit vorne im Bug zu plazieren
(Fig. 1).
Trotzdem ist es vielfach möglich unter diesen Bedingungen eine
Bugschraube einzubauen, auch wenn der Tunnel damit nicht völlig
vom ursprünglichen Rumpf umgeben ist.
Der Tunnel wird zur Hälfte in den bestehenden Rumpf integriert,
die andere Hälfte geht über diesen hinaus. Der Tunnel muß nur
noch verstärkt und strömungsgünstig abgerundet werden.
Dies erlaubt eine Installation in geeigneter Position bei Nutzung
der Zuverlässigkeits- und Platzvorteile einer Tunnelschraube.
Diese Installationsart wird von einigen der weltweit führenden
Segelboothersteller verwendet und führt meistens nur zu einem
äußerst geringen bzw. gar keinem Geschwindigkeitsverlust.
Diese Bauweise ist auch für Barkassen (z.B. Flußboote) mit
flachem Bug geeignet, um einen zu langen Tunnel und große
ovale Tunnelöffnungen im Rumpf zu vermeiden.
Installation in Segelbooten
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Tunnel installation in sailboats
Fig. 1
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Many sailboats have a racing type hull which means that it is very
flat bottomed and has a very shallow draft in the bow section. It is
thereby very difficult not to say impossible to fit a tunnel thruster the
usual way, at least as far forward in the hull as a thruster should be
(Fig. 1).
However, it is possible to install a tunnel thruster in most sailboats,
even when the hull does not directly support the fitting of a tunnel.
This is done by fitting the tunnel halfway into and halfway under-
neath the existing hull and then strengthen it and smoothening the
water flow by moulding a bulb around / underneath the tunnel.
This will allow installation in good position on the boat, maintaining
the reliability and space advantages of a tunnel thruster.
This installation is being used by some of the world’s largest sailboat
builders, and has been proven to give little to no speed loss for
normal cruising.
This can also be a good installation method for flat bottomed barges
to avoid extremely long tunnels and huge oval tunnel openings in the
hull.