Performax 240-3688, Руководство оператора

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Page 29
OPERATION
3 . Splintering typically happens due to
incorrect blade style, dull blade, thinness
of work piece, or improperly dried wood .
NOTICE: Always perform a dry-run cut so
you can determine if the operation being
attempted is possible before power is
applied to miter saw.
4 . Place the work piece flat on the miter
table with one edge securely against the
fence . If the board is warped, place the
convex side against the fence . If the
concave edge of the board is against
the fence, the board could collapse
on the blade at the end of the cut and
jam the blade (Fig . 34 and 35) .
5 . Align your pencil line in the middle
of the dual laser lines .
6 . When cutting long work pieces, use
extension wing for extra support for
the long work pieces .
7 . Carefully follow all instructions for
applicable miter, bevel or compound
cuts .
CUTTING CROWN MOLDING
(FIG. 37)
Always uses the
hold-down clamp, and place tape on the
area being clamped to avoid marks on the
work piece.
Your miter saw is ideal for cutting crown
molding . To fit properly, crown molding
must be compound-mitered with extreme
accuracy . To fit flat against the ceiling and
wall, the sum of the angles of the crown
molding’s two connecting surfaces must
equal 90° .
When setting the bevel and miter angles for
compound miter cuts, remember that the
settings are interdependent; changing one
also changes the other .
WARNING:
FIG. 37
Keep in mind that, because it is very easy for
the angles of crown molding to shift slightly,
all settings should be tested on scrap
molding . Also, most walls do not have angles
of precisely 90°; therefore, you will need to
fine-tune your settings .
When cutting crown molding, the bevel
angle should be set at 33 .9°, and the miter
angle should be set at 31 .6° either left
or right, depending upon the desired cut
for the application .
See the following table for correct angle
settings and correct positioning of the
crown molding on the miter table .