Construction Manual
www.oldschoolmodels.com
Page 3
one 12” for throttle if glow powered)
• 8 clevises for the pushrods
• 2 - 3” diameter wheels
• 1 - tailwheel assembly
• Covering
• If a glow engine is used:
6-8 ounce tank and fuel tubing
1 mini servo for throttle control
Throttle pushrod with clevises.
Additional Required Building Tools and Adhesives
• Drill & assorted drill bits
• Hobby knife and new, sharp blades
• Sandpaper: coarse (80 or 100 grit) & medium (150-200 grit)
• Pencil or pen
• Long metal straightedge - 12” minimum.
• T-Pins
• Waxed paper
• Building board
• 30 minute epoxy (brushes and mixing sticks)
• Adhesives of your choice. We recommend thin and medium
CA (cyanoacrylate) viscosities
• Threadlocking compound
Before Starting Assembly
Closely inspect the supplied laser cut parts for damage. If you find
any damaged or missing parts, contact us immediately.
When removing the laser cut parts from their sheets, you’ll notice
the parts are held in place by several small “tabs”. These tabs
are uncut pieces of wood and can sometimes make it difficult to
remove a part. Rather than breaking and/or splintering the wood
by forcing out the part, we recommend removing any laser cut
parts from their sheets by using a hobby knife with a new, sharp
blade. A quick cut of the tab will allow the piece to be removed
with no damage. Sand any tab remainders flush with the part so
there will be no problem aligning them later.
It’s best to not remove parts from their sheets until they are needed.
Refer to Appendix A of this manual as a reference to what all the
laser cut parts look like and are called.
For each step, we highly recommend that you dry fit the parts in
each step first. Lightly sand as needed to ensure a good fit. Once
you’re satisfied with the fit, then and only then, glue the parts in
position.
Closely inspect the supplied laser cut parts for damage. If you find
any damaged or missing parts, contact us immediately.
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU ASSEMBLE THIS KIT
IN THE ORDER DESCRIBED. SKIPPING FORWARD IN
THE STEPS COULD LEAVE YOU WITHOUT THE PROPER
LENGTHS OF WOOD TO FINISH THE KIT.
WE’VE INCLUDED ENOUGH WOOD TO EASILY COMPLETE
THIS KIT, BUT YOU MUST TAKE CARE TO PROPERLY
MEASURE AND NOT WASTE WOOD WHEN CUTTING.
Let’s begin construction by working on the right (starboard)
wing of your Trophy Racer
Prepare your work area
You’ll need a flat building
surface that is a minimum
of 36” long. Position the
starboard wing plan over
the surface and tape into
position. Tear off a length of
waxed paper long enough
to cover the wing plan and
tape that into position, over the plan.
Step 1 - Alignment triangles
Pre-cut into LP1 are two triangles,
one inside the other. These can be
used to vertically align any of the
parts in the construction of your
Trophy Racer. LP1 also includes two
foot pieces that can be used with
the triangles to hold both triangles vertical hands-free.
We recommend using the smaller triangle in the wing construction
as it’s small enough to fit between the ribs.
Step 2 - Wing Assembly (lower spar)
The lower spar is cut from one
of the 3/16 x 3/8” basswood
strips. Position over the plan,
measure the length and cut. The
remainder of this piece will be
used for the upper spar, so set it
aside so it’s not used for anything
else.
Attach the spar over the plans, using a couple small drops of
medium CA instead of t-pins. Be sure it is aligned properly and is
straight over it’s entire length. The alignment of this spar is critical
as the rest of the wing panel is based off this single piece.
Step 3 - Wing Assembly (R1)
Locate one R1 rib from BP5.
Position R1 so it is absolutely vertical
and perfectly aligned with the plans.
This rib is key to the alignment of
the wing and fuselage later on, so
make sure it’s spot on before gluing
in position.
Online Supplementary Photos
We realize that the smaller black-and-
white photos in this manual might not
show some of the steps as clearly as
you might want. So we’ve anticipated
this and made these photos available
on our website. You can either scan the
QR code or type this address into your
browser:
www.oldschoolmodels.com/mpics/tracer
