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www.oldschoolmodels.com
Construction Manual
Logos, numbers, etc.
If you want to use graphics similar to the
ones we used, Old School Model Works
has teamed up with Callie Graphics as a
supplier for pre-cut vinyl. They are a very
well known provider of custom graphics
for R/C models.
We have supplied them with the artwork
needed to cut the correct size logos and
numbers. You can order straight from them, choosing the colors
and numbers that work for you.
Contact Callie Graphics at this link: https://callie-graphics.com or scan
the QR code on the previous page.
Note that Callie Graphics is not affiliated with Old School Model
Works, nor does Old School Model Works generate any income
from this partnership.
Attach the Control Surfaces
Make the necessary slots/holes needed to hinge the ailerons,
rudder and elevator to the airframe. We point out recommended
hinge locations on the plans.
Now is the time to attach all the control surfaces to the airframe,
by gluing the hinges in position. The supplied hinges are C/A type
and require a few drops of fresh, thin CA to work properly.
Tailwheel mounting
Mount your choice of tailwheel to the bottom of the fuselage. We
chose to bend a simple tailwheel from scrap 1/16" dia. wire. but
the choice is up to you.
Main gear mounting
Re-install the main gear
to the airframe. If you are
using the wheelpants, refer
to this photo as the order
the parts are installed,
and to what a finished
installation should look
like. We’ve included a
couple of extra P5 spacers.
Using standard wheels,
we found we only needed one spacer, but you might need more
depending on the width of your wheels.
Make sure that the first wheel collar is pressed tightly up against
the inside wall of the wheel pant to hold it securely to the the main
gear and axle.
Also don’t forget to file a small flat on the axle where the set screws
will make contact. A bit of thread-lock on the set screws is always
a good idea too.
Radio and Pushrod Installation
Install (or re-install) the radio at this point. Make sure that when
installing the control horns, they are placed in-line with the
pushrods, and that the line of holes where the clevises attach are
positioned over the hinge line. The self-tapping screws provided
should be able to be threaded into the surfaces without the need
for pre-drilling the holes, but you can pre-drill using a 1/16” bit if
you’d prefer.
Don’t over-tighten the screws when installing. Once threaded
in, remove the screws and use a drop or two of fresh, thin CA to
harden the wood. Then you can re-install the screws for a good,
secure fit.
Also, you will not need the included backer plates for any of the
control horns when mounting this way.
If you are a bit “squeamish” about threading these screws into
C/A hardened balsa for the elevator and rudder, substitute our self-
tapping screws for longer 2-56 x 1” machine screws (not included).
Using the mounting holes in the control horns as a guide, you can
then mark and drill 5/32” holes through these two control surfaces.
This will allow these longer screws to go through the control horn,
the control surface and have enough length to also thread into the
backer plates.
Note that the ailerons have hardwood installed already so this
would only need to be done for the elevator and rudder.
If you are using flexible pushrods for the elevator and rudder
(such as Dubro’s Lazer Rods, Sullivan’s Gold-N-Rods, etc.) we have
included a set of plywood retainers in LP4 that could be used along
the fuselage to mount and stabilize the pushrod’s outer tubing.
Position these as needed for your setup and
be sure to cut away any covering so they
can be glued to the fuselage sheeting.
Power system
Re-install the power system, prop, tanks, tubing, batteries, servos,
etc. If you are using electric power, for safety’s sake, don’t hookup
the 4S lipo yet, but put in place so you can check the C.G. in the
next step.
CAUTION! DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP!
An important part of preparing the aircraft for flight is properly
balancing the model. This is especially important because of the
various motor/battery combinations that can be used.
The recommended Center of Gravity (CG)
location for the Trophy Racer is measured
back 3.15-3.25” from the leading edge of
the wing, and you’ll see this marked on the
fuselage plan with this symbol.
If necessary, move the battery, receiver,
and/or add weight to either the nose or
the tail until the correct balance is achieved. Stick-on weights are
available at your local hobby store and work well for this purpose.
Also remember that we designed built-in pockets in case nose-
weight is needed. You can install the weight inside these pockets,
place the hatch on, then cover over the hatch to hold in place.
Recommended Control Throws:
The amount of control throw should be adjusted as closely as
possible using mechanical means, rather than making large
changes electronically at the radio.
By moving the position of the clevis at the control horn toward
the outermost hole, you will decrease the amount of control throw
of the control surface. Moving it toward the control surface will
increase the amount of throw. Moving the pushrod wire at the
servo arm will have the opposite effect: Moving it closer to center
will decrease throw, and away from center will increase throw.
Work with a combination of the two to achieve the closest or exact
control throws listed.
P5
Wheel collar
LP3
LP4
FS1
FS2
SH1
WB1
RH
SH2
P4
P6
P5
F2A
SH2D
SH1D
