27
iron jibboom fittings (britannia castings),
and these fittings angle the jibboom
slightly to port of the bowsprit. This is
done so the jibstay can go through the
sheave in the end of the bowsprit. The
castings are both the same but have a split
bottom so they can be fitted to the
tapered bowsprit in each position.
After the jibboom is installed, lash down
the heel with line around the bowsprit. The
bowsprit is held in place by an iron strap at
the heel on deck and a gammon iron at the
stem. These are britannia castings.
Figure 6-9
illustrates the entire bowsprit
assembly.
4. Building the Spreader Yard
and Topsail Yard
Note:
The lower yard is designated a
spreader yard, but could also be called a
crossjack.
Both yards are round. Instead of shoulders
at the yardarms, there is a fore and aft stop
chock for rigging. In addition, add the
sling cleats at the center of the yards.
Some rigging is included, because it’s easi-
er to do while holding the yards. Add the
footropes on both yards, the clewline
blocks on the topsail yard, and the topsail
sheet blocks on the spreader yard. These
yards are installed once rigging com-
mences.
Figure 6-10
illustrates the yards.
Note:
There are no jackstays on the yards.
At this period in time, the sails were laced
to the yards.
5. Building the Boom and Gaff
When tapering the boom and gaff, notice
that the maximum diameter is not at the
center like a yard, but more toward the aft
end. The boom and gaff have laser-cut wal-
nut jaws (
Figure 6-11
). Drill the sheave
hole at end of boom for the outhaul tackle,
then install the stop chocks on the gaff for
peak halliards and the outhaul stop chocks,
sheet stop chocks, and cleats on the boom.
Complete these spars in hand as much as
possible. Add the footrope to the boom
as well as other rigging. The boom and
gaff will be installed later.
6. Building the Flag Staff
The flag staff for the stern is a simple
tapered spar. Add the small cleat for the
flag halliard.
7. Mast and Spar Bands,
and Cleats
The mast cap, bowsprit heel band, gammon
iron, and jibboom irons are all britannia
castings in the kit. Because of casting limi-
tations, these fittings are about 1/32" thick.
Full size that’s 1-1/2". Obviously, they
should be thinner, about 1/2" to 1" full
size. You can file these fittings down for a
more scale-like appearance, or make your
own using brass strip. The mast cap on the
mast need not be filed down because it is
flush with the square head anyway. You
could file down the round part that holds
the topmast.
The cleats for the mast and boom are
britannia castings. They have a pin
molded at the bottom. Drill a hole in the
spar and insert the cleat. Use some super
glue or epoxy to fix them. For the flag
staff you will need to cut the cleat pin off
a bit so it does not go all the way
through the spar.
Reminder:
Paint and detail yards, gaff, and
boom before setting them aside. Once rig-
ging commences, they must be ready to
install on the mast.
FIG. 6-10 YARD DETAILS
EYESPLICE
BOTH ENDS
CENTERLINE OF YARD
ROUND
ENDS
STOP CHOCKS
FOOTROPE
SLING CLEATS
FORWARD SIDE ONLY
QUARTER
BLOCKS
FIG. 6-11 BOOM & GAFF JAWS
LASER CUT JAWS
FILE A SLOPE IN THROAT OF
GAFF JAWS
METAL BANDS
(OR PAPER STRIP)
Stage 7:
General Rigging Information
Newcomers to the nautical world should
learn the following rigging terms used on
the plans and in instructions.
Each edge and corner of a sail has a
name. On a square sail, the top is the
head
, the bottom is the
foot
, and sides the
leech
. The lower corners are the
clews
. On
a fore and aft sail, the top is the head,
bottom the foot, aft side the leech, and
forward side the
luff
. The lower forward
corner is the
tack
, aft lower corner the
clew
, upper forward corner the
throat
, and
the aft upper corner the
peak
. A triangular
sail is similar, but the upper corner is
called the head. It has no throat or peak.
Standing rigging:
Fixed rigging supporting
masts and yards. Generally, standing rigging
is tarred; hence, it is black or dark brown.
Shrouds:
Transverse lines supporting the
masts.
Deadeyes
are wood and have three
holes for reeving the
lanyards
(lines used
to tighten shrouds, stays, and other lines).
A
heart
or
bullseye
is similar to a deadeye.
The heart is somewhat heart-shaped and
has a heart-shaped hole with grooves for
the lanyards. It is used for more perma-
nent installations. The bullseye is round
with a round hole.
Chain plates:
Iron bars or rods holding
shroud deadeyes along the hull.
Footropes:
Lines on yards, booms, and
bowsprits on which seamen stand while
working and furling sails.
Stirrups
hold the
footropes, which are sometimes called
horses
.
Ratlines
are the footropes on shrouds.
Stays and backstays:
Lines supporting the
masts from fore and aft forces. A running
backstay has a moveable tackle on deck.
Bobstays:
Support the bowsprit from
upward loads.
Bowsprit shrouds
, or
guys
support the jibboom and bowsprit from
side forces.
Running rigging:
Lines that move,
reeve
(go) through blocks, or operate sails and
spars.
Blocks:
Wooden or metal shells with
sheaves
(pulleys) for handling lines. A
purchase
(tack-
le) consists of several blocks and a line to
provide a mechanical advantage for han-
dling sails and spars.
Jig tackle
is a term
describing a tackle at the deck end of a rig.
Halliards or halyards:
Lines for raising
and lowering a sail, yard, boom, gaff, or
flag. The part of a halliard attached to a
yard is the
tye
. For gaffs, the outer halliard
is the
peak halliard
. At the gaff jaws is a
throat halliard
, named for the part of the
sail it operates.
Downhauls
,
outhauls
, and
inhauls
drag a sail along a boom or up
and down a stay.
Sheets:
Lines holding the lower corners of
a sail or boom. When not in use, sails are
furled
(bundled on the yards, booms, or
