FIG. 5-3 BUILDING THE BINNACLE
FAKE HINGE FOR TOP
(WIRE)
HINGED
TOP
FORWARD
PANEL
SIDE
PANEL
FEET
VENT
HOLES
AFT
PANEL
BEVEL EDGES
TO EMPHASIZE
SEAMS
PIN HEAD
KNOBS
WINDOW
TO VIEW
COMPASS
GLASS OR
CLEAR
PLASTIC
FIG. 5-4 BOOM CRUTCHES
ROUND EDGES
LASER CUT BOOM
CRUTCH P/S
CLEAT
TAFFRAIL
CABIN TOP RAIL
BOTTOM
OPTIONAL
FAKE
DRAWERS
20
The cut-outs in the laser-cut sub-decks
locate the hatch and companionway
coamings, mast, galley stack, riding bitts,
and pumps. Other items such as catheads,
timberheads, eyebolts, and cleats can be
located in relation to these, or from some
other benchmark such as a gunport.
Lightly mark their positions in pencil.
1. Anchors, Catheads, and
Anchor Stowage
The anchor shanks are britannia castings.
Fashion the anchor stocks from wood strip
either from walnut or basswood. The bands
around the stocks can be 1/64" x 1/16"
brass strip provided in the kit, or as an
option, paper bands or just painted bands.
The catheads are laser-cut walnut. They
need to be sanded down to 5/32" thick
from the 3/16" thick laser-cut parts. (It was
uneconomical to include 5/32" with the
laser-cuts, as it would have been the only
part in this thickness.) Also, you may need
to shape the catheads a bit to fit the bul-
wark. Before installing the catheads, drill
four holes at the outer end and cut a shal-
low groove between the holes to represent
sheaves for the hoisting line tackle. Or, you
can add real brass sheaves, but these are
not included in the kit. An additional hole
is required for the bitter end of the hoist-
ing tackle just inboard of the sheave holes.
For stowage, the anchor can be hung
from the cathead on the cat block hook,
or hoisted up on the rail forward and tied
off to the timberhead just ahead of the
cathead. Make the cat hook from 0.020"
dia. wire included in the kit. The hoisting
line belays to the timberhead just aft of
the catheads (
Figure 5-1
).
The actual length of the anchor and
stowage are unknown. However, this ship
most likely anchored in fairly shallow
water most of the time, so about 100 feet
of anchor cable on each anchor would be
reasonable. That’s 25 inches for the
model. In use, the anchor cables would
be hitched around the riding bitts. For
stowage, the cable could be in a long coil
on deck behind the catheads, but was
most likely removed and stowed below
via the small scuttle. You could also leave
the cables attached to the anchors and
have the lines leading below through the
scuttle with hatch cover set aside. No real
answer here. Use whatever you think will
look best on the model.
The anchor buoys can be stowed inboard
on the timberheads. The buoy can be
turned in a lathe or hand-carved. It’s just a
simple egg-shaped block. The rope harness
for the buoy is rather small to detail. You
can simply glue the lines, or even fake the
lines with black paint (
Figure 5-2
).
Stage 5:
Adding The Hull Details
FIG. 5-1 STOWING THE ANCHORS
CATHEAD
LASH TO TIMEBERHEAD
ANCHOR CABLE
BUOY LINE
SEE FIG. 5-2
FIG. 5-2 STOWING THE ANCHOR BUOYS
TIMBERHEAD
BUOY
OPTION – LAY BUOY
ON THE DECK
ROPE HARNESS
GLUE LINES OR FAKE WITH
PAINT AS OPTION
WOOD
