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6. Channels
Make the channels from walnut stripwood.
They taper outboard. The outboard edge is
a separate strip. Cut slots in the edge for the
chainplates and, when installed, add the
edge strip. Best dowel the channels on the
hull for added strength (
Figure 5-8
).
7. Companionway
Build the companionway from walnut
stripwood and fashion the hinges from
1/64" x 1/16" brass strip provided in the
kit. The hinge pin can be faked using a
piece of 0.020" dia. wire included in the
kit. Chamfer (just sand) the edges of the
planking so the seams show up better.
Assemble the planked panels on a flat sur-
face before gluing to the corner posts. The
corner posts have two strips on the inside,
forming a rabbet to support the panels.
The companionway fits on top of a coam-
ing similar to the main hatch. Add some
tabs on the companionway sides to fit in
the coaming and help hold the compan-
ionway in place on the coaming. Glue the
tabs to the inside of the companionway
first. Trial fit, then add glue to the tabs and
insert into the coaming (
Figure 5-9
).
Note that the coaming for the companion-
way should be installed before deck plank-
ing. Refer to Stage 2.
8. Eyebolts, Ringbolts, and Cleats
Both the hull plan and rigging plans show
the locations of all eyebolts and cleats. Drill
a hole wherever an eyebolt is required. Using
a toothpick or microbrush, spread a thin
film of cyano on the bolt, then insert. Don’t
overdo the glue. When all are mounted, tug
on each eyebolt to test the bond.
Eyebolts supplied in the kit are simply a
wire bent into a loop. Bend the eye closed
if there is a slight gap, or touch with a little
solder or epoxy glue.
Ringbolts are composed of an eyebolt and
split ring. For these, use the 1/16" o.d. cop-
per eyebolts supplied in the kit. Use 1/8"
split rings for hatch ringbolts and cannon
ringbolts on the bulwarks. For the cannon
carriage, use the smaller 3/32" split rings.
After inserting the split ring into the eye-
bolt, solder or glue the joint.
Use the larger 3/32" o.d. brass eyebolts for
those used to attach rigging lines and blocks.
The cleats, though probably wood on the
ship, are britannia castings. Use these, or
make wooden ones from stripwood. The
cleats for deck and spars have a pin molded
on the bottom of the cleat. Drill a hole in
the deck or spar and set the cleat with super
glue or epoxy. The shroud cleats have a
flange on the bottom. Seize each end
around the shrouds with thread and glue.
9. Galley Stack
First, add a wooden walnut base plate for
the stack on the deck. The hole for the
FIG. 5-10
GALLEY STACK
BRITTANIA
CASTING
DECK PAD
HOLE IN
DECK
DRILL
DEEPER
(OPTIONAL)
FIG. 5-11 HATCHES AND SCUTTLE
MITER
JOINT
OPTIONAL
CORNER JOINT
LEDGE PIECE TO
SUPPORT COVER
HATCH OR SCUTTLE COVER
LEDGE PIECE
SUB DECK
COAMING
FIG. 5-12 GALLEY HATCH GRATING
MACHINE CUT STRIPS
ASSEMBLE ON
MASKING TAPE
STICKY SIDE UP
TOUCH EACH JOINT
WITH SUPER GLUE
SAND TOP
FIG. 5-13 BUILDING QUARTER DECK LADDERS
CABIN CAMBER
OUTBOARD LEG
IS SHORTER
TREADS PARALLEL
WITH BASE LINE
DECK CAMBER
LEDGE
PIECE
22
FIG. 5-9 BUILDING THE COMPANIONWAY
REAR
PANEL
CORNER
POST
SIDE
PANEL
CORNER
POST
FRONT PANEL
BACKUP
STRIPS
(OPTIONAL)
COAMING
SUB DECK
TABS
TO
SECURE
PANELS
TO
COAMING
PANEL
COAMING
WIRE
TOP
WIRE TO
FAKE HINGE
BRASS STRIP