Lithium Grim Sultan of Tone, Инструкция по сборке

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Sultan of Tone v4.1
7
Building sequence
Soldering this board can be very complicated for some people since the solder pads are very close
together. Use a magnifying glass to make the job easier. If you want to experiment with other diodes
than you could socket them instead of soldering them to t
he board. You’ll need a 20 SIL, break off
the sockets and solder them to the board.
This board gives you the option to separate both channels with their own input and output. If you do
not want that and keep the stock option then solder the output of channel A to the input of channel
B:
Start by soldering the small resistors and then the diodes. All diodes need to be soldered in an
upright position except for
D7 , D14 and D15 . Again, If you want to socket the diodes then skip them
till you start soldering the sockets.
Note: Diodes are fragile!! Do not expose them to heat for too long or they’ll break. Do not blow on
your solder in an attempt to cool it down. That will possibly result in a bad join that might corrode!
Solder the small ceramic capacitator C2 and C13 next.
Solder the 10n and 100n SMF/MKT capacitors. Next, solder the IC sockets (and diode sockets), then
the DIP switches (only if you do not intend to use the external diode mod on page 9 else leave out
the dipswitches!) and lastly solder the 1u SMF and electrolyte capacitors.
NB. It might be best that you solder the big electrolytes on the bottom side of the PCB instead of the
top side. This will save you a lot of space. Measure first, then solder!!!
Finally solder the presence/treble boost trim pots VR1 and VR2 . If you want to control the presence
externally then do not solder VR1 and VR2 but use B50k Alpha 16mm pots. For your convenience I
marked the pinning on the PCB. The pots default setting is all the way to the right. To boost treble,
turn the pots to the left.
Place the IC (and diodes) and you are almost ready to rock.