24
Rough Cutting a Dado
1. Mark lines identifying the width and depth of
the desired cut on the workpiece and position
on the table so the inside tip of the blade is
positioned on the line. Use a hold down clamp
to secure the workpiece.
2. Set the cutting depth as described in
Presetting
the Cutting Depth
on page 18.
3. Lower the cutting head (the
hold-down latch
C,
Fig. 32 must be in the
out
position as shown)
so the tip of the blade touches the top surface
workpiece at the marked line.
4. Cut two parallel grooves.
Auxiliary Wood Fence
When making multiple or repetitive cuts that result
in cut-off pieces of one inch or less, it is possible for
the saw blade to catch the cut-off piece and throw it
out of the saw or into the blade guard and housing,
possibly causing damage or injury. To minimize
this, an auxiliary wood fence can be mounted to
your saw. Holes are provided in the saw fence to
attach an auxiliary wood fence (this provides
additional depth of cut). This fence should be
constructed of straight wood approximately 3/4 in.
thick by 1-1/2 in. high by 22 in. long. Attach the
wood fence securely and make a full depth cut to
make a blade slot. Check for interference between
the wood fence and the lower blade guard. Adjust if
necessary.
Cutting Base Molding
Base moldings and many other moldings can be
cut on a compound miter saw. The setup of the
saw depends on molding characteristics and
application. Perform practice cuts on scrap material
to achieve best results:
1. Always make sure moldings rest firmly against
fence and table. Use hold-down, crown molding
vise or C-clamps, whenever possible, and
place tape on the area being clamped to avoid
marks.
2. Reduce splintering by taping the cut area prior
to making the cut. Mark the cut line directly on
the tape.
3. Splintering typically happens due to an
incorrect blade application and thinness of the
material.
Note:
Always perform a dry run cut so you can
determine if the operation being attempted is
possible before power is applied to the saw.
Figure 32
Crown Molding
Your compound miter saw is suited for the difficult
task of cutting crown molding. To fit properly, crown
molding must be compound-mitered with extreme
accuracy. The two surfaces on a piece of crown
molding that fit flat against the ceiling and wall are
at angles that,
when added together, equal exactly
90°.
Most
crown molding has a top rear angle (the
section that fits flat against the ceiling) of 52°and a
bottom rear angle (the section that fits flat against
the wall) of 38°.
In order to accurately cut crown molding for a 90°
inside or outside corner, lay the molding with its
broad back surface flat on the saw table.
When setting the bevel and miter angles for
compound miters, remember that the settings are
interdependent; changing one changes the other,
as well.
Changing the Belt
1. Unplug your saw.
2. Loosen the bolts and remove the belt cover.
3. Turn the screw counterclockwise with a hex
wrench to move the motor forward.
4. Remove and replace the belt.
5. Turn the screw clockwise with a hex wrench to
move the motor back. Do not over tighten.
6. Replace the belt cover and tighten the bolts.
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