Factory Five Racing Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe, Руководство пользователя

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www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443
USA West
Coast
All Mustang
Performance
Phoenix, AZ 800-454-8387
Tommy
Thompson
www.ampperformance.com
Mustang Village Fontana, CA 909 823 7915 Scott or Tom www.mustang-village.com
Cypress Auto Berkley, CA 510 451 3034 Mike Percy
www.cypressautorecyclers.com/factory5.html
Mustang Depot Las Vegas, NV 702 281 4517 www.mustangdepot.com
Price
Whether you’re buying a complete salvage yard car or a bunch of parts, it’s important to remember which parts
are worth money to the salvage yard and which ones are of little or no value. The drive train, body panels and
interior are of the most value. The other pieces such as the steering shaft, pedal box, and other miscellaneous
pieces usually are very inexpensive for the yard to include. When negotiating the price from the parts yard, you
might get a better deal if you promise to let them have the parts you won’t be utilizing. Look at the donor parts
list again and you’ll see that the glass, body panels, interior parts, and doors are not needed. We believe it is
usually better to take the parts off yourself; you will inevitably do a more careful job. If you are using parts that
are already taken off, you gain the advantage of being able to cherry pick the best of those that are available. It
is not hard to buy a complete donor car from a salvage yard for less than $3,000.00.
Running Gear
In order to make a wise choice on running gear, there are several things to look for. First, make sure that the
VIN numbers on the transmission and engine are present and match the numbers on the vehicle title (if
available). If the numbers don’t match, (let’s say the transmission was replaced) make sure the parts yard
records the new numbers on their bill of sale. In the unfortunate event that these components were stolen, you
need to have documentation on the origin and sale price. Check the numbers twice. The VIN numbers are
located on the back of the engine block, on a flat spot between the heads where the bell housing meets the
block. Some solvent or WD-40 can usually clean this area off enough to see the numbers. The VIN numbers
on the transmission are typically stamped on the side of the main transmission housing at the lower front edge
of the passenger side, near the seam of the bell housing. Check these numbers against the codes listed in a
Chilton’s manual to find out the year of manufacture. Here are some tips to follow when checking out running
gear.

Examine the engine mounts . Some small splits in the rubber area of the mount are normal, but any serious
splitting should be avoided. Aftermarket engine and transmission mounts are cheap and an excellent
alternative to donor car ones.

Check the steel sections of the engine mounts for damage since these are areas that can bend.

Mileage is not the most important aspect of selecting a donor Mustang. The 5.0L drivetrain is one of the
toughest things about these cars. It’s obvious however, that the lower the mileage the higher the chances of
avoiding additional expenses down the road.

The rear end assembly should be free from oil leaks. Oil leaking out the sides of the 8.8” rear end near the
brakes, or around the pinion snout (drive shaft connection area) is an indication that there may be more than
100K miles on the rear axle, or that it was abused. One way to check the rear end is to grab the rear wheel at
the top and rock the car back and forth (by pushing and pulling in and out). This will give you an idea of
free play in the axles. Some play (about 1mm) is OK. What you are looking for is a large amount of
movement side to side within the housing. Avoid cars with bent axles (from rollovers or hard side hits).
These are not too hard to fix but it’s good to know up front when you’re planning your budget. A quick way