hole until the joint is about a ¼” from its final position and use a paper
towel to remove the excess epoxy that has been forced from the hole.
Push the hinge the rest of the way in and make sure the hinge pin is
centered in the hinge line. Use some denatured alcohol and a paper
towel to remove all excess epoxy, especially on the hinge pin. When
you are satisfied with the result set the surface aside to dry. Position
the drying piece so that any excess epoxy will pool around the rear of
the hinge.
8.
When you are comfortable with this process you should be able to do
one side of a surface per batch of epoxy. Glue all hinges into the
stabilizer first. After the glue has set trial fit the elevator to the stab
and adjust if necessary. There should be as little gap as possible
between the stab and elevator. When satisfied with the fit remove the
elevator and repeat the gluing process outlined above. Be sure to
wipe away all excess epoxy! Set aside to dry. Repeat this process for
the other stab/elevator half.
9.
After the hinges have dried thoroughly, pull on them to make sure
they are properly installed. The hinges will probably feel a little stiff
as it is almost impossible to get all of the glue out of the joint. Use a
fine tipped hypodermic needle and place one (only one!) drop of
acetone on each side of the hinge pin. Move the elevator back and
forth a few times and you will feel it loosen up.
Be careful to only
use one drop as you don’t want to weaken the glue joint!
Add a
drop of penetrating oil to each hinge pin and you will ensure a smooth
operating surface with no binding. Seal the bottom of the hinge gap
with a strip of Ultracote or Blenderm tape. Be sure to fully deflect the
control surface when applying the tape or Ultracote to allow full
deflection once the gap is sealed.
10.
Use a sharp #11 blade to remove the covering from the slot for the
elevator servo control horn. You may have to slightly enlarge this
hole to allow for maximum travel.
11
Содержание YAK-54 ARF
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