The level of chlorine inside the pool, as long as it is not above 5ppm,
will not significantly affect the following tests and procedures used
to balance the pool water. Therefore, if there is no chlorine in the
pool at this time, add some. Add 1-2 cups of liquid bleach (any
brand is fine as long as it does not have an added scent to it) to an in-
door pool. If you have an outdoor pool, add the appropriate amount
of granules out of the bag of “stabilized” chlorine. Test for chlorine
in a day or two and add more if necessary.
1. Balance Total Alkalinity (TA)
• Ideal reading: 100ppm
• Acceptable range: 80-120ppm
• Raise with: Sodium Bicarbonate (TA increaser)
• Lower with: Sodium Bisulfate (pH decreaser)
Method of chemical application:
Pre-mix the appropriate chemical into a clean bucket and pour
into the pool.
Retest TA and adjust again if necessary.
Add less chemical than you think is necessary to effect the desired
change. Keep track of how much chemical it took to make that
change.
Notes:
Many regions of the country and world will have water with a TA
higher than our recommended range. In a lot of cases, it will be
desirable to leave the TA alone as any adjustment to it will also
tend to affect the pH. The TA is mainly serving as a buffer for the
pH. If it is above 120ppm, but lower than 200-250ppm, leave
the level alone. It will simply over-stabilize the pH, which is not
a problem, especially if the pH is within range or close to being
within range.
If the TA is lower than our recommended range, though, we would
recommend increasing it to at least 80ppm. Once again, the TA
serves mainly as a buffer for the pH and if the TA is too low, the
pH level in the pool can change very rapidly causing bather dis-
comfort and damage to the pool and pool equipment.
Once the TA is within a tolerable range, move on to adjusting
the pH in the pool. You should find that the TA will be slow to
change—for this reason, test for it once a week.
2. Balance pH
• Ideal reading: 7.5
• Acceptable range: 7.4-7.8
• Raise with: sodium carbonate (pH increaser)
• Lower with: sodium bisulfate (pH decreaser)
Method of chemical application:
Pre-mix the appropriate chemical into a clean bucket and pour
into the swim current. Afterwards, make sure you wash some wa-
ter on the propulsion housing to ensure that no granules are resting
on the benches. Test and apply more chemical as necessary.
Notes:
It is very important to keep the pH within range. If the level is too
low, severe damage can occur to the pool liner and the submerged
hydraulic motor, and the pool equipment. If the level is too high,
damage can occur to the liner, and it can make the water prone to
“scaling,” when minerals and metals dissolved in the water will be
dropped out of solution and on to the benches and liner. Having
the pH too high or too low may cause bather discomfort in the
form of eye or skin irritation.
The pH will change slowly over the course of a week or two. The
number of bathers and the type of chlorine used are just two fac-
tors that will cause the pH to change. For this reason, pH should
be tested three times a week and adjusted as needed.
Once the pH is within range, move on to adjusting the calcium
hardness.
3. Balance Calcium Hardness (CH)
• Ideal reading: 180ppm
• Acceptable range: 175-250ppm
• Raise with: calcium chloride (calcium hardness increaser)
• Lower with: water containing less calcium (softened water)
Method of chemical application:
Fill a clean, five gallon bucket with pool water and dissolve the
dosage of calcium into this water. Do not mix this solution with
your hands. Pour the solution in to the swim current, and let the
current circulate the water in the pool for a few minutes. Wait a
few hours, test again, and add more calcium if necessary. Once
again, always add less chemical than you think will be necessary
to effect the desired change.
Notes:
As with TA, many regions will have higher CH than what is spec-
ified by our recommended range. If it is available, partially filling
the pool with softened water will dilute the calcium content and
essentially lower the CH level inside the pool. If softened water is
unavailable, perhaps water tanked-in from an outside source would
be the best option for you. If this not possible either, we would
strongly suggest adding the “sequestering agent” sent with the pool.
This chemical helps the water hold all of its dissolved materials in
solution, including metals and calcium content. The main concern
with having CH levels too high is that the calcium may deposit out
of solution—a sequestering agent will help prevent this.
Calcium hardness will tend to slowly increase over time as water
evaporates from the pool and leaves its calcium behind.
3. Pool Equipment and Start-Up Operation
The pool is full when the water level completely covers the hon-
eycomb grills where the current is produced. A water level 1/2"
(12mm) or more lower than this can cause air to get pulled through
the skimmer-filter and into the WQS plumbing lines. This can lead
to problems with the filter, and can also cause your heater to work
intermittently. A water level 1" (2,5cm) or more, higher than the
top of the grills can lead to water getting splashed out of the pool.
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