Set the required cutting width
- Slacken the knurled screws (26) and push the
stop rail (25) forward until it touches the
imaginary 45° line.
- Retighten the knurled screws (26).
8.4. Cross stop (Figure 9)
Slide the cross stop (14) into the groove (38) of
the table.
Slacken the knurled screw (32).
Turn the cross stop (14) until the arrow points to
the angle required.
Retighten the knurled screw (32).
When cutting large parts of workpieces you can
use the stop rail (25) from the parallel stop (7) to
extend the length of the cross stop (14) (Fig. 15)
Important!
Do not push the stop rail (25) too far toward the
blade.
The distance between the stop rail (25) and the
blade (4) must not be higher than 15 mm.
8.5. Setting the angle (Fig. 16)
Undo the fixing handle (9).
Turn the handle to set the desired angle on the
scale.
Lock the fixing handle again in the required
angle position.
9. Operation
Important!!
After every new adjustment we recommend you
to make a trial cut in order to check the new
settings.
After switching on the saw, wait for the blade to
reach its maximum speed of rotation before
commencing with the cut.
Take extra care when starting the cut!
Never use the equipment without the suction
function. Regularly check and clean the suction
channels.
9.1. Making longitudinal cuts (Figure 21)
Longitudinal cutting (also known as slitting) is when
you use the saw to cut along the grain of the wood.
Press one edge of the workpiece against the parallel
stop (7) while the flat side lies on the saw table (1).
The guard hood (2) must always be lowered over the
workpiece.
When you make a longitudinal cut, never adopt a
working position that is in line with the cutting
direction.
Set the parallel stop (7) in accordance with the
workpiece height and the desired width. (See
8.3.)
Switch on the saw.
Place your hands (with fingers closed) flat on the
workpiece and push the workpiece along the
parallel stop (7) and into the blade (4).
Guide at the side with your left or right hand
(depending on the position of the parallel stop)
only as far as the front edge of the guard hood.
Always push the workpiece through to the end of
the splitter (5).
The offcut piece remains on the saw table (1)
until the blade (4) is back in its position of rest.
Secure long workpieces against falling off at the
end of the cut (e.g. with a roller stand etc.) .
9.1.2. Cutting narrow workpieces (Fig. 22)
Be sure
to use a push stick (3) when making
longitudinal cuts in workpieces smaller than 120
mm in width. A push stick is supplied with the
saw!
Replace a worn or damaged push stick
immediately.
9.1.3. Cutting extremely narrow workpieces
(Fig. 23)
Be sure
to use a push block when making
longitudinal cuts in very narrow workpieces with
a width of 30 mm and less.
The low guide face of the parallel stop is best
used in this case.
There is no push block supplied with the
saw! (Available from your specialist dealer)
Replace the push block without delay when it
becomes worn.
9.1.4. Making bevel cuts (Fig. 16/24)
Bevel cuts must always be used using the parallel
stop (7).
Set the blade (4) to the desired angle. (See 8.5.)
Set the parallel stop (7) in accordance with the
workpiece width and height (see 8.3.1)
Carry out the cut in accordance with the
workpiece width (see 9.1.1., 9.1.2 and 9.1.3.)
9.1.5. Making cross cuts (Fig. 25)
Slide the cross stop (14) into one of the grooves
(38) in the table and adjust to the required angle.
(See 8.4.) If you also want to tilt the blade (4),
use the groove (38) which prevents your hand
and the cross stop from making contact with the
blade guard.
If necessary, use the stop rail (25).
Press the workpiece firmly against the cross stop
(14).
GB
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