EASY-BUILD DERBY LIGHTWEIGHT CLASS 108 DMU, Руководство по сборке, Страница: 16 / 22

63.2) To form the seat, flex the moulding until the joint between the base and seat back shows a
thin white line. Apply solvent, or superglue to the joint holding together briefly to prevent the back from
initially springing apart.
63.3) The arm rests can be added to create first class type seats if required.
63.4) You will also require a single seat creating by cutting a twin seat in half. Re-model the seat
back to make it more realistic as a single seat rather than a cut-down double seat.
64) To mount the seats cut a set of false floors onto which to mount the seats. It is better for you
to determine the exact dimensions required in you model, but the following dimensions are an
appropriate starting point:
20mm wide for twin seats - 3x 80mm (front saloons both units); 2x 140mm (centre saloons both
units); 1x 95mm (rear saloon DMCL).
26mm wide for triple seats - 1x 80mm (front saloon DMBS); 2x 140mm (centre saloons both
units); 1x 95mm (rear saloon DMCL).
Use the seating plan to create the following floors:
65) Fix a half partition to each end of the centre saloon floors ensuring both handrails are towards
the inside of the carriage.
66) Fix two half partitions to one end of each rear saloon floor, again keep the handrails towards
the inside of the carriage.
67) Paint the seating and attach to the floors
68) Fold the toilet compartment (E29) to form an ‘L’ shape such that the short wall has its top
angled downwards to clear the underside of the roof. Check the cubicle will fit in place and still allow
the floor to be fitted. Paint and fit toilet cubicle as appropriate.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
69) Find the windscreens you put in a safe place some time ago and fit using small amounts of
adhesive. If you have some RC Modellers Glue (canopy glue) to hand, dilute a small amount with
water and apply from the inside with a small brush to the edge of the glazing allowing capillary action
to draw the liquid into the joint. Also fit the completed small destination box if you have used the large
headcode box on the cab roof. There is a front (with an opening) and a rear create a sandwich with
a destination label showing throught the opening. Affix at the top of the centre window.
NOTE: Read both steps 70.1 and 70.2 before continuing.
70.1) Install the glazing into the window openings from inside the body, remember to ‘frost’ the toilet
window by rubbing the inside face with 800 grit abrasive paper. Fit dry and secure in place by running
dilute canopy glue around the edges with a small brush. Dilute the canopy glue to the consistency of
milk and add a single drop of detergent to aid the flow of the glue into crevices.
70.2) If the glazing is fitted ‘as is’ you will find a small gap between the ventilator bar and the glass,
not terribly noticeable, but nevertheless it’s there. Alternatively score each panel at 7.8mm from the
top and crease away from the score - it may break in two. With either a single creased panel, or two
smaller panels to hand the window can now be glazed with the panes flat against the etched frame.
This is not as difficult as it may appear from the description, nor very time consuming. We have
devised a simple measuring jig to make this even easier (contact Shawn at Camelford for details).
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