EASY-BUILD DERBY LIGHTWEIGHT CLASS 108 DMU, Руководство по сборке, Страница: 14 / 22

56.3) Add the two etched grills E8 to the rectangular opening of the two radiator blocks
C29.
56.4) Fix 2x C22 onto their mounting C25 starting from the thin end (the thick end is the
top).
56.5) Assemble the large vac tank from C28a, b & c - you can’t put this together wrongly!
just remember to keep the mountings square to each other, or it will be difficult to attach to
the floor.
56.6) Attach a C14 to each of the exhaust flexibles C24 (there are two different exhaust flexibles
castings, a left and right with the same number - sorry!). With the flexible stood on its ‘foot’ C14
stands on the other side of the foot with the button box clear of the floor - see right.
56.7) Using the photos attach a fuel filler pipe to the rear of each battery box (don’t forget you’re
working upside down so the fillers need to be angled downwards).
56.8) Clean up the remaining castings the four petched parts E9 and with reference to the photos
and drawings create the underfloor detail arrangement. Etched part E10 is only fitted to the outside of
the solebar on the DMCL - at the first passenger door, driver’s side. Part E26 can be used to create
a sub assembly of C25, C10 and C17. Leave the exhaust flexible assemblies until the other fittings
are in place but leave room for them! The two fuel tanks and assembled diesel engines are mounted
between the two molded ribs - all other details to the left and right as required. Take time to have a
trial run of detail placement because it gets a bit tight under there, also keep bogie movement in mind.
Note: once the diesel engines and exhaust flexible assemblies have been mounted the exhaust stub on
the diesel engines can be soldered, or glued to the rear of the exhaust flexible canister (the round
cylindrical bit) to give extra support to the exhaust assembly.
56.9) Probably the trickiest part is creating the exhaust pipes. Anneal the 1.5mm brass supplied to
form the pipes. Study photos to get a feel for where the exhausts run around the various underbody
components. The basic run is illustrated on the DMBS/DMCL Underframe Details Layout diagrams as
thick dotted lines. To enable the floors to be removed make the short pipes up to the silencers attached
to holes in the rear bufferbeam. Drill 2x1.5mm holes centrally in the bufferbeam 1mm from the inside
edge of the buffer stocks and affix the short pipes with superglue. DO NOT solder these pipes to the
silencer just butt them neatly up to the underside of the silencer (see photos) Once the pipes have
been formed, carefully solder to the exhaust pipe stub cast onto the diesel engine and glue the other
end to the floor. See photo: EXHAUST PIPE STUBS (Cl. 108 model).
56.10) Mount the competed exhaust assemblies.
56.11) Finally mount the remaining two fuel fillers in line with the fuel tank. On the demo we simply
used the space heater and an exhaust pipe as conveniently placed items to hold the fillers in the
appropriate positions.
56.12) Fit the speedo drive backing E13 and casting C3 to the driver’s side solebar about 47mm
from the front of the extended solebar.
57) Cut 12 off 18mm x 5mm, 2 off 30mm x 5mm of 1mm (40 thou) styrene as step treads. NOTE:
the steps are not aligned to the bottom of the solebars, but about 1mm above the. The actual vertical
positioning can be determined by casting C23 (DMCL) because the step tread for that door sits
14
C24 C14