Connoisseur Models GWR TOAD Diagram AA7, Инструкция пользователя

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10. Painting is a vast subject that cannot be covered fully here. The important thing with a metal
model is to get a good base coat of primer. Hopefully you have been cleaning up and washing the
model at the end of each modelling session but it will still need thoroughly cleaning before painting. I
give my models a good scrub with a stiff-bristled paint brush in a sink full of hot water, as hot as your
hands can bear, and cheap washing up liquid (the expensive stuff that’s kind to your hands has an
oil in it that will stop the paint keying to the metal). If you know somebody who works in catering and
can scrounge you some industrial-strength liquid this is better still. Then rinse the model a couple of
times in clean warm water and place in a dust-free box to dry. I use car aerosol primer and Halfords
grey primer is one of the best. For the best results you want to spray at room temperature (25°C) on
a dry day, avoid cold, damp or humid days. I find it helps to warm the model to about 30°C (put it in
the airing cupboard overnight) and I warm up the paint tin by putting it onto a radiator (about 40°C,
but use your common sense as I don’t want anybody blowing themselves up). I find it best to prime
the model in two light coats, about 15 minutes apart and then leave for 48 hours to harden off (in the
airing cupboard in a dust-free box).
I brush-paint my models with Humbrol enamel. For years I just stirred it up and painted straight
from the tin but I was never completely happy with the results. Recently two things have transformed
my painting. The first was a copy of Martyn Welch’s book, The Art of Weathering, Wild Swan
Publications, ISBN 1 874103 11 9. Martyn’s basic techniques are very useful and almost foolproof.
Martyn’s method of mixing coarse talcum powder into the paint to give a textured roof is particularly
effective. The second thing is to mix the paint in the tin and then transfer it to a palette (a sheet of
clean plasticard) with blobs of lighter and darker shades of paint surrounding the main colour. Then
work the paint with the brush on the palette, slightly varying the tones of the paint. This seems to
totally change the texture of the paint and the way it goes on and covers on the model.
Make a floor from the quality card that the etch was packed onto and glue inside the cabin with
Evostick. I prefer a card floor as this helps to deaden the rattling empty box noise that you can get
when the wagon is running on a layout. For glazing the end windows, you can use clear plasticard,
but I prefer to cut flat sheets from the clear blister packs that many items are packaged in
nowadays. This has a textured surface probably caused by the moulding process, which gives it a
slightly opaque quality that I think represents dirty windows just right.
The last link passes through the hole in the coupling hook. I reinforce the
joint of each link with a spot of 60/40 solder.
Pass the coupling hook through the buffer beam slot and retain it with a
length of spring wire. Polish the centre of this wire with emery cloth first so
that you can solder it to the coupling hook shank once you are happy that
the buffers spring freely.
Now fit the cast brake standard locating into the hole in the veranda floor.
When I had the pattern made for this I asked the pattern maker to over
emphasise the handles to help them cast and give them strength. This he
did and it cast beautifully. So much so that I took a casting and reduced
the handles and placed it in the next mould. So you should have two brake
standard castings and you can use which one you wish. Personally I still
prefer to fit the slightly over scale one.
For more information and photographs of the prototype brake van I would recommend GWR
Goods Wagons, Atkins Beard & Tourret, Tourret Publishing, ISBN 0-905878-07-8. Get it from your
local library via their book order system.
Alternatively if you can get a copy of Model Railway Constructor May 1976, or the original
reference book, is A Pictorial Record of Great Western Wagons, J.H.Russell, Oxford Publishing Co,
ISBN 902888 01 3.
12 vans were built to lot number 206 in 1898 and given running numbers 56985-56996. Originally
the vans were 13 tons but later many of these vans had extra ballast added to bring them up to 16
tons so check photos of the period that you are modelling.
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