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This section is written to cover painting and detailing of fiberglass components using in Century’s scale helicopter
kits. Some included references may describe components of different kits, not exclusive to this detail instruction
manual.
Introduction to Fiberglass
Introduction to Fiberglass
Introduction to Fiberglass
Introduction to Fiberglass
Introduction to Fiberglass
When considering the strength compared to the space age canopies that are common on most pod and boom
helicopters there is no contest. This plastic material is virtually indestructible at the penalty of being virtually
un-paintable without specialized and expensive automotive primers and paints, there is also a very limited range
of color available. The reason you are reading this page is that you have come to your senses and wanted to fly
a model that looks and holds all the prestige of a real helicopter.
Flexibility
Flexibility
Flexibility
Flexibility
Flexibility
A wonderful attribute of fiberglass is in its flexibility. Century and Funkey take care and pride in craftsmanship
that goes into every fuselage. However, fiberglass parts will migrate (change shape) while inside the shipping
box. When two mating components are brought together and they do not align or mate, the culprit is a warped
part. Many become upset and wish to lay blame but dealing with this is very simple when explained a simple
procedure. Using a heat gun set at the high setting at a distance of 1-2 feet away, evenly heat the warped part until
the outside surface is hot to the touch and the part has become pliable (flexible). Using adhesive tape, mate the
two fiberglass parts together and let both parts sit until both parts have reached room temperature. Remove the
tape and now both parts are stable and match one another. In some instances, depending on the location of the
warp, the part may need to be held in an overextended position to achieve the proper shape when the part is
finished.
Working with Fiberglass
Working with Fiberglass
Working with Fiberglass
Working with Fiberglass
Working with Fiberglass
Difficult to work with, we disagree. Fiberglass is easier to repair than you think. Using today’s CA type of
adhesives, a severe crack in a fuselage can be simply fixed and the repaired section is much stronger than in its
original state. Add touchup paint and no one would ever know it had been damaged. There is a limit to this type
of thinking where purchasing the replacement fiberglass part is simply cheaper and less work than performing
major reconstructive surgery.
The Paint Job.
The Paint Job.
The Paint Job.
The Paint Job.
The Paint Job.
There is no magic to a good paint job, the true secret is time, patience and common sense. A beginner who
thinks that they can throw paint onto a fuselage Friday night before flying on Sunday is dreaming, the helicopter
would be flyable but even that is a stretch. The average beginner will spend the better part of a month to apply
a good clean paint job.
Preparing the fuselage for painting.
Preparing the fuselage for painting.
Preparing the fuselage for painting.
Preparing the fuselage for painting.
Preparing the fuselage for painting.
After opening the kit version of the fuselage, examine all the fiberglass components to see where work needs to
be done to allow a simple "bring up" of the fuselage. "Bring up" describes the necessary steps to complete all
the jobs in order to start priming the fiberglass parts. Typical work that is done at this stage is rough sanding on
seams and jointed components, filling of surface imperfections, adding panel lines and rivets, cutting required
holes and preparation for priming.
1. Start by thoroughly washing all fiberglass parts in mild detergent and warm water, this will remove any
residue remaining from the molding process. Next wipe down all the parts with Acetone (from the hardware
store). The Acetone will remove all traces of oil or grease that will affect the adhesion of two fiberglass parts or
between the paint and the fiberglass. Now using fine steel wool or an abrasive pad commonly used for scrub-
bing dishes, scuff all surfaces that will be joined or receiving paint. What is important to note here is that we
are breaking through the topmost resin surface and creating the best surface for adhesive or primer to adhere to.
Section Three: Preparing and painting the kit version.
Section Three: Preparing and painting the kit version.
Section Three: Preparing and painting the kit version.
Section Three: Preparing and painting the kit version.
Section Three: Preparing and painting the kit version.
