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Seaming Sheers

Returning to Standard Serging

Lettuce Edge

Use the 3-thread rolled hem setting when sewing sheer fabrics that otherwise would require

French seams. Set the stitch length at 2.5. Then simply sew the seams, aligning the fabric edges

with the serger seam guide, trimming away the excess seam allowance.

Clear the stitch fingers and return the stitch length dial to the standard range. Set stitch width and

length at the desired settings. Replace the left needle and its corresponding thread, if desired.

A frilly or "lettuce" edge can be created on most

light and medium weight stretch fabrics and on bias

edges of soft, woven fabrics. It makes a pretty de-

corative edging for activewear, lingerie, accessories

and children's wear.

Set the machine for the 3-thread rolled edge. (refer

to page 25)

Set differential feed at 0.6. (fig. B) Serge the fab-

ric in the direction of greatest stretch - the cross-

grain on knits, bias grain on wovens. For a "leafier"

effect, try using a shorter stitch length and gently

stretch the fabric (fig. A) as it is being sewn. Sew a

test sample. (fig. C)

Belt Loops and Button Loops

Use the rolled edge thread chain, stitched without

fabric, to make professional belt loops and button lo-

ops. Using a heavy decorative thread in the upper

looper forms a stronger loop.

B

B

A

A

C

C

26

R

O

L

L

E

D

E

D

G

I

N

G

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Содержание Victory BLS3

Страница 1: ...Model BLS3 Model BLS3 ...

Страница 2: ... needle s causing it to break 13 Switch the overlock machine to the symbol O position when making any adjustments in the needle area such as threading needle changing needle threading looper or changing presser foot and the like 14 Always unplug the overlock machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers lubricating or when making any of the user servicing adjustments mentioned in the ins...

Страница 3: ...n Fabrics and threads you previously avoided are now a joy to sew because the Baby Lock Victory handles all varieties with equal ease With the Baby Lock Victory your creative options are endless and your time spent serging is more fulfilling and rewarding With the Instant Jet Air Threading even threading the Victory is a breeze With proper care and maintenance your Baby Lock Victory promises years...

Страница 4: ...ding Your Victory 15 Threading Position for Threading Loopers 15 Lower Looper 15 Upper Looper 16 Right Needle 17 Left Needle 17 How to use Needle Threader 18 Serging with Fabric 18 Clearing the Stitch Width Fingers 19 Re threading Loopers 19 Re threading Needles 19 4 THREAD OVERLOCK 20 4 Thread Overedging 20 Overlock Seam 20 4 Thread Overlock 21 3 THREAD OVERLOCK 22 3 Thread Overlock Wide 22 3 Thr...

Страница 5: ...38 Serging Curves 39 Inserting Tapes 39 Cutting Blade Cover Seam Guide 39 USING SPECIALTY THREADS 40 Using Specialty Threads 40 Threading Lightweight Thread 40 Changing Threads 40 Threading Mediumweight Thread 40 Thread Cradle for Loopers 41 Looper Threading Tool 42 Bypassing the Threading Port 43 Specialty Thread Guide Chart 44 45 MAINTENANCE 46 Replacing Needles 46 Replacing Cutting Blades 46 Cl...

Страница 6: ...achine it reaches the feed dogs first The feed dogs move the fabric along as the cutting blades trim the edge creating a clean edge to be finished Then the loopers and needle s form the stitch on the fabric edge supported by one or more parallel stitch fingers Metal prongs that keep the fabric flat The threads become locked over the fabric and the re sulting stitches encase the raw edge with threa...

Страница 7: ...Machine lock button release lever 17 Machine lock button 18 Looper threading lever 19 Differential feed adjusting lever 20 Handwheel 21 Power switch 22 Lower looper threading port 23 Looper threader selector 24 Accessory compartment spool stand 25 Stitch selector 26 Upper looper threading port 27 Looper thread fine tuning screw 28 Carrying handle 29 Telescopic thread guide and antenna 30 Needle th...

Страница 8: ...iver 1 8 Tweezers 1 9 Upper cutting blade for replacement 1 10 Looper threading tool 1 11 Screwdriver 1 12 Thread nets 4 13 Spool caps 4 14 Sponge disks 4 15 Allen wrench 1 16 Cone holders 4 17 Machine cover 1 18 Standard presser foot 1 Packing box Packing box Packing box Accessory compartment Accessory compartment Accessory compartment Accessory compartment Accessory compartment Accessory compart...

Страница 9: ...mum performance of the Baby Lock Victory it is recommended to use 100 polyester long fiber thread Recommended brands are Maxi Lock and Metrosene This thread also performs best when used with various decorative threads for serging specialty techniques There are optional snap on specialty feet available for the Victory The optional accessories are available at your Baby Lock retailer Beading Foot B5...

Страница 10: ... intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet reverse the plug If it still does not fit contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet Do not modify the plug in any way The sewing speed of the machine is determined by the amount of pressure applied to the foot con trol When not in use do not place anything on the foot control or the ...

Страница 11: ...w counterclockwise The Victory has the convenience of a snap on presser foot To Release 1 Raise the presser foot lever 2 Lock the cutting blade 3 Raise the needles to the highest position 4 Push the presser foot release lever located at the back of the presser foot holder 5 Carefully turn the presser foot clockwise 90 degrees 6 Slide the presser foot to the rear to remove To Replace 1 Raise the pr...

Страница 12: ...d and rolled settings The stitch width adjusting dial is located above the stitch length dial fig A The stitch width dial displays two sets of numbers indicating two width ranges The larger size num bers on the dial 5 5 through 7 5mm denote the stitch width when the left needle is in use The smaller size numbers 3 0 through 5 0mm apply when the right needle is in use The M setting 3 5 is for the r...

Страница 13: ... This action can eliminate wavy seams in stretchy fabrics or those cut on the bias grain At the maximum setting of 2 0 fig C the differential feed can gather a lightweight fabric to nearly double fullness fig D The front feed dog is actually feeding in twice as much fabric as the back feed dog is feeding out To maximize the gathering effects use the longest stitch length setting Fabric weight will...

Страница 14: ...eedle B For balanced overlock stitches using the right R needle C For narrow stitches with a short length using right needle D For 3 Thread Rolled Hem stitch See chart on last page for stitch selection settings No adjustments are needed when sewing with most fabrics and threads on your Baby Lock Victory but certain threads or fabrics may require minor fine tuning of the looper delivery system to p...

Страница 15: ...idiary looper to the right direction and swing it counterclockwise to the left fig B 4 Make sure the hooked tip of the subsidiary looper enters into the upper looper eye fig C 5 Close the blade cover and the front cover To disengage the subsidiary looper 1 Open the front cover and the blade cover 2 Rotate the handwheel to bring the needle clamp to its highest position 3 Slide the subsidiary looper...

Страница 16: ...the thread to reel off freely With the spool notch side down insert a spool cap into the top of the spool fig B When using standard spool threads on your serger replace the cone holders with the sponge disks furnished with your machine These disks hold smaller spools securely and help the thread to reel off properly With the sponge disk in place put the capped spool on the spindle fig C Thread net...

Страница 17: ... foot up and machine lock button in the locked position fig B set the looper threader selector lever to L for lower looper threading fig B 2 Place the thread cone or spool on the far right front spool pin on the thread stand fig C page 16 Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide 1 directly above the spool snap into the thread guide 2 at the top of the machine then through the slot ...

Страница 18: ...t on the front cover See fig C below 3 Pull 18 inches 45cm of thread through guide C Insert the end of the thread into the threading port U about 1 inch 2 5cm Use tweezers if necessary to insert the thread end more easily See fig D below 4 Depress the looper threader lever fig D below If the thread does not go through the upper looper eye with one push depress the looper threader lever again until...

Страница 19: ...ight needle illustration below position 7 refer to page 18 1 Turn the handwheel and line up the green marks on the machine and the handwheel Set the needle threader selector on L for left needle fig A page 18 2 Place the thread on the first spool pin on the left side of the thread stand illustrated below Thread needle thread guides A and B then through the groove on the front of the machine and th...

Страница 20: ...oot and to the back lower the presser foot While holding the threads in your left hand press down on the foot controller gently to begin a thread chain before serging fabric fig A You can leave the presser foot down for most serging appli cations Just place the fabric at the toe of the presser foot As you step on the foot controller the feed dogs will begin moving the fabric toward the needle fig ...

Страница 21: ...for the looper being threaded Re thread the machine above the threading port leaving an 18 inch 40cm thread tail Thread the looper as usual and move the lock button release lever to the right Close the front cover and sew a test sample Refer to page 15 16 for further information Note When re threading your Baby Lock Victory using the Jet Air Threading feature make sure that the previous thread tha...

Страница 22: ...d overlock or 3 thread overlock can also be used with this technique For garments or projects that do not require conventional pres sed open seams you can stitch and finish the seam in one opera tion and then press the seams to one side fig A A 4 or 3 thread seam is strong yet it provides give or flexibility according to the needs of the fabric Place two layers of fabric right sides together Use t...

Страница 23: ...dle thread visible on the top side of the stitch interlocks with both the loopers to add durability The upper looper thread that resembles a zigzag on the upper side of the fabric is from the upper looper The lower looper thread that resembles a zigzag on the lower side of the fabric is from the lower looper Move the stitch selector lever to A For the perfect 4 thread overlock stitch follow the su...

Страница 24: ...rt your serger to a 3 thread overlock wide stitch 5 5 7 5mm cut the needle thread just above the needle eye fig A Remove the right needle and thread completely from the machine Re tighten the needle clamp screw slightly to pre vent the screw from working out fig B Move the stitch selector lever to A For the left needle 3 thread wide overlock stitch follow the suggested settings and the threading d...

Страница 25: ...eedle thread completely from the machine Tighten the needle clamp screw slightly to prevent the screw from working out fig B Place needle into right needle clamp position and tighten screw Move the stitch selector lever to B For the right needle 3 thread narrow overlock stitch follow the suggested settings and the threading diagram below NEEDLES right LENGTH 2 5 3 5 WIDTH 3 0 STITCH SELECTOR B A A...

Страница 26: ...d justing dial counter clockwise to the rolled hem range Set the length at 0 75 1 5R fig A and the stitch width at 3 0 for a smooth decorative finish fig B Move the stitch selector lever to C For the right needle 3 thread narrow hemming follow the sug gested settings and the threading diagram below NEEDLES right LENGTH 0 75 1 5R WIDTH 3 0 STITCH SELECTOR C 3 0 5 0 5 5 3 0 5 0 5 5 3 0 5 0 5 5 A A B...

Страница 27: ...around the stitch finger The upper looper wraps the fabric edge while the lower looper thread is nearly invisible on the back side of the stitch formation Remove the left needle and thread Clear the stitch fingers Turn the stitch length adjusting dial counterclockwise into the rolled hem range to 0 75 4 0R fig A Set the stitch width dial to 3 5 M fig B For a 3 thread rolled edge move the stitch se...

Страница 28: ...t light and medium weight stretch fabrics and on bias edges of soft woven fabrics It makes a pretty de corative edging for activewear lingerie accessories and children s wear Set the machine for the 3 thread rolled edge refer to page 25 Set differential feed at 0 6 fig B Serge the fab ric in the direction of greatest stretch the cross grain on knits bias grain on wovens For a leafier effect try us...

Страница 29: ... the fabric for stability The edges pull open and flatten within the stitch for a non bulky joining fig A Be sure to sew a test sample first to determine whether the stitch will have the strength to hold the seam without the fabric pulling away Move the stitch selector lever to D For the right needle 3 thread flatlock follow the suggested settings and the threading diagram below NEEDLES right LENG...

Страница 30: ...opic thread guide directly above the spool of thread Bring the thread through the top thread guide that is normally used for the upper looper 3rd from left and down the front Then take the thread to the left and thread the machine as you would for the needles in their normal position see illustration on page 29 for cor rect threading 4 Using the needle threader thread the eye of left or right need...

Страница 31: ...th in the front of the machine Go left with the needle thread at the hook on front of the machine Then take the needle thread through the normal needle thread paths See illustration below 4 Engage the subsidiary looper following step 3 on page 13 or step 5 on page 28 5 Thread the lower looper as shown in the illustration below If you want the overlock stitching to show on the right side of the fab...

Страница 32: ...hread through the normal needle thread paths See illustration be low 4 Engage the subsidiary looper following step 3 on page 13 or step 5 on page 28 5 Thread the lower looper as shown in the illustration below If you want the overlock stitching to show on the right side of the fabric place wrong sides together and sew fig C To produce the ladder needle thread on the outside place the fabric right ...

Страница 33: ... ladder stitch you want to show along stitch placement lines 5 Position the fabric under the presser foot aligning the fold of the fabric 1 8 inch 3 5mm to the left of the upper cutting blade fig A 6 Stitch to the desired ending point 7 Clear the stitch fingers and chain off the fabric fig B 8 Clip threads leaving a 3 4 inch 7 5 10cm chain 9 Gently pull the fabric to flatten the stitches fig C 10 ...

Страница 34: ...o cre ate a fold about 1 4 from the top edge of the hem as shown fig A 3 Align the fold under the presser foot and stitch allowing the needle to catch only a thread or two of the soft fold the blade will trim the top edge of the hem and the loo pers will overcast the edge for a clean finish fig B 4 Open the fold and press flat fig C Note An optional blindhem foot for consistent guiding is availabl...

Страница 35: ...ead out of the tubular looper at the lower end of the looper tube see below illustration Bring the thread up to the large thread guide below the face plate and to the left Bring the thread up and over the take up lever slot down and into the last thread guide above the left needle 4 Use Maxi Lock thread to thread the lower looper the same as for normal overlock stitching 5 Slide the subsidiary loo...

Страница 36: ...e lower end of the looper tube see below illustration Bring the thread up to the large thread guide below the face pla te and to the left Bring the thread up and over the take up lever slot down and into the last thread guide above the left needle 4 Use Maxi Lock thread to thread the lower looper the same as for normal overlock stitching 5 Slide the subsidiary looper to the right then rotate it to...

Страница 37: ... machine to the looper threading position fig A B page 15 4 Rethread the upper looper page 16 For 4 thread serging replace the second needle page 17 5 Move the lock button release lever to the right to unlock the machine 6 Turn the handwheel and line up the green marks on the machine and the handwheel 7 Rethread the needle s page 18 8 Close the blade cover and the front cover 9 Lower the foot and ...

Страница 38: ...ack into the stitching 4 Lock the beginning or end of a seam by serging over the previous stitches Directions listed below To lock the beginning of the seam 1 Manually turn the handwheel toward you taking 2 3 sti tches into the fabric Leave the needle s in the lowest position to anchor the fabric 2 Raise the presser foot 3 Smooth out the thread chain with your fingers fig B Then bring the chain ar...

Страница 39: ...th the wrong side of the stitch fa cing up fig G and reposition it under the presser foot with the needle at the seam edge aligned with the pre vious needle line fig H 4 Lower presser foot and sew 5 6 stitches over the previ ous stitches being careful not to cut them You may want to flip the cutting blade lock switch clockwise to the lock position Pivot the fabric and chain off fig I J F F G G H H...

Страница 40: ...ack in the needle thread when clearing the stitch fingers Try again turning corners takes a little practice 1 Reinforce loosely woven fabrics at the corner with staystitching on the conventional sewing machine Clip to the corner fig A 2 Align the fabric edge with the blade and stitch un til the blade reaches the corner not the needles Don t cut into the corner fig B 3 Lower the needle s to anchor ...

Страница 41: ...to the stitching Insert tape or elastic into the slot and under the back of the foot fig A Adjust the stitch width to match the tape width Place the fabric under the foot and stitch fig B Use the marks on your serger s front cover and set the width dial at M to align the fabric for accurate seam allowances When using the left needle the second mark L from the needle indicate 5 8 inch 16mm from the...

Страница 42: ...in the usual way The ease with which they can be threaded in the loopers however depends on thread thickness 1 Clip the existing thread at the cone and remove the cone from the spindle fig A 2 Place the new cone on the spindle With the two threads together tie an overhand knot or square knot fig B 3 Raise the presser foot and pull the old thread from under the foot until the new thread comes throu...

Страница 43: ... 55cm strand of serger thread and fold in half to form a thread cradle Insert the loose ends of the thread cradle into the port about 1 inch 2 5cm 6 Holding the cradle loop with left hand depress the threa ding lever with your right hand fig E until the thread ends come out the looper eye 7 Insert the specialty thread tail into the cradle loop fig F pull the serger thread ends until the specialty ...

Страница 44: ...e looper that is being threaded 4 Thread specialty thread into the upper thread guides leaving an 18 inch 40cm tail above the threading port 5 Place the straight end of the looper threading tool into the threading port Push the looper threading tool until the end comes out of the looper eye 6 I nsert the specialty thread tail into the looper threading tool eye fig A Pull the straight end of the lo...

Страница 45: ...e thread in the looper arm 5 Tie the specialty thread onto the regular thread with an overhand knot fig C Pull on the regular thread from the looper eye until the specialty thread comes through the looper eye 6 Place upper looper thread under the foot and to the left clip lower looper thread at the base plate If the thread is heavy and the overhand knot step 5 is too large for the looper tube foll...

Страница 46: ... Yes For exposed edges only 2 Thread Flatlock Yes Yes Yes In lower looper 4 Thread Edging Yes Yes Yes 3 Thread Edging Yes Yes Yes 3 Thread Rolled Edge Use in upper looper only Yes Use in upper looper only Blanket Stitch In needle only In lower looper Not recommended Ladder Stitch In needle only In lower looper In needle only COMMENTS When using decorative thread in the needle use a size 90 Top Sti...

Страница 47: ... recommended Machine embroidery thread only Use in the upper and lower loopers 3 Thread Edging Not recommended Machine embroidery thread only Use in the upper and lower loopers 3 Thread Rolled Edge Lengthen stitch slightly Machine embroidery thread in upper looper Use in the upper looper only Excluding Ribbon Thread Blanket Stitch Not recommended Not recommended Use in the needle only with a size ...

Страница 48: ...e replacement A spare blade is provided with the machine for replacement if necessary The spare blade is located in the thread spool stand accessory compartment If for some reason your machine does not cut or perform as it should please take your machine to your nearest Baby Lock retailer It is possible that the result of poor cutting may indicate other problems To replace the upper moving blade f...

Страница 49: ...asons unplug main power cord 2 Raise and remove presser foot 3 Select stitch length dial to rolled hem setting 4 Remove needles from needle clamp 5 Turn your handwheel until the upper looper is in the far right position 6 Remove the needle plate Remove front screw with screwdriver and back screw with allen wrench fig A 7 With your right hand first raise the needle plate in front of the blade Pull ...

Страница 50: ...abric 5 Is the correct needle being used for the particular stitch 6 Is the correct needle being used for the type of fabric being sewn 7 Is the fabric being pulled from the rear of the machine while sewing Fabric will not feed in machine 1 Is the machine lock button released 2 Is the presser foot down 3 Are the cutting blades sharp 4 Are the cutting blades presser foot and feed dogs free of lint ...

Страница 51: ...the power cord from the electrical outlet when the machine is not in use Needle threading difficulties 1 Is the needle threader selector at the appropriate setting R for right needle L for left needle Looper threading difficulties 1 Is the looper threader selector at the appropriate setting Left threading port for U upper looper right threading port for L lower looper 2 Is the thread end in the pr...

Страница 52: ...Stitch Stitch Width Standard 2 3 4 thread with left needle 5 5 7 5mm Standard 2 3 thread with right needle 3 Thread Stitch with right needle 3 0 5 0mm 3 Thread Rolled Edge 1 5mm Stitch Length 2 3 4 Thread Overlock Stitch 0 75 4mm 3 Thread Rolled Edge 0 75 4Rmm Differential Feed Gathering effect N 2 Stretching effect N 0 6 Presser Foot Snap on feet Handwheel Rotates forward Needle System Organ or S...

Страница 53: ... 3 5 3 Right B N 23 3 Thread Narrow Hemming 0 75 1 5R 3 Right C N 0 6 24 3 Thread Rolled edge 0 75 4R 3 5 Right D N 0 6 25 3 Thread Flatlock 2 3 3 0 5 0 Right D N 27 2 Thread Flatlock Wide 2 2 5 7 5 Left A N 29 Narrow 3 3 5 3 5 Right B N 30 This chart indicates the suggested range of settings for each stitch category Make adjustments to the stitch length and width settings according to fabric weig...

Страница 54: ...Notes 52 ...

Страница 55: ...Notes 53 ...

Страница 56: ...BLS3 EI 48 En Printed in Japan ...

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