Installation, Operation and Maintenance Manual
Installation, Operation and Maintenance Manual
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5. Prefill and Sanitize the Storage Tank (continued)
E) Thread ball valve onto tank.
F) Insert one end of 3/8” yellow tubing into ball valve.
G) Connect supplied 3/8” x 1/4” adaptor to other end of yellow tubing.
H) Connect free end of orange feed water tubing to 1/4” side of adaptor.
I) Open feedwater valve and tank valve and allow tank to fill (about 3 minutes).
J) To open feedwater valve, turn handle to the left (counterclockwise).
K) Turn off feedwater valve and tank valve.
L) Remove orange tubing from adaptor then remove adaptor from yellow tubing. The tubing may need to
be cut for removal due to line pressure. Refer to Figure 6.
M) Set tank aside for at least 15 minutes for disinfection.
6. Install the Drain Connection (Figure 4)
For basement installations, the drain saddle is generally not used. Instead, the RO reject line is routed so
that it drains into a laundry sink, floor drain or standpipe through an approved air gap.
Undercounter Installations:
The drain saddle assembly is designed to fit around a standard 1 1/2” O.D. drain pipe. For smaller (lavatory
type) or larger (ABS pipe) drains, consult your Aqua-Pure
®
distributor.
NOTE: The drain saddle should always be installed above (before) the trap and on the vertical or horizontal
tailpiece. Never install the drain saddle close to the outlet of a garbage disposal or dishwashing drain be-
cause plugging of the RO drain line may occur.
A) Position threaded half of drain saddle at selected location and mark the spot through the opening.
B) Drill a 1/4” hole at the marked spot through one side of drain tailpiece.
C) Position both halves of drain saddle on drain pipe so the threaded opening lines up with the hole in the
drain pipe.
D) Use bolts and nuts to clamp drain saddle onto drain pipe. Do not overtighten and make sure that there is
equal space between saddle halves on each side. CAUTION: Overtightening could result in a cartridge
crack, which may lead to fluid leaking.
E) Wrap PTFE tap on thread of drain saddle elbow and tighten into drain saddle. Orient elbow in the direc-
tion of RO faucet location.
7. Install the Faucet
NOTE: Undercounter installations require a faucet with faucet air gap module. See Figures 1 and 2.
A wide variety of RO faucet mounting situations can be encountered, the most common being stainless
steel and ceramic on metal sinks.
The faucet should be positioned so that it empties into the sink and the spout swivels freely for convenience.
If the sink already has a hole provided that can accommodate the RO faucet, then no drilling is required and
you can proceed to the section on mounting the faucet.
NOTE: Sprayers can be disconnected to provide a suitable hole for the RO faucet. A pipe cap or plug will
be required to seal the sprayer connection on the existing faucet.
• Before starting the undercounter installation procedure, inspect the condition of the drain piping, especially in
older homes where the traps and tailpieces can be deceptively thin and frail.
• Some state and local plumbing codes may prohibit the use of saddle-type valves and/or drain connections. See
page 2 for list of states. Optional feed valve assemblies can be purchased. See page 15 for further information.
IMPORTANT NOTES
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8. Make the Faucet Mounting Hole
Before starting the hole making operation, always check below the sink so that nothing interferes with
mounting the faucet such as reinforcing ribs, support brackets or cabinet construction.
Stainless Steel Sink, faucet with or without air gap module.
Recommended Tools:
• Center punch
• Variable speed drill and high speed drill bits
• Greenlee chassis punch 7/8” hole size
(alternate 9/16” size may be used for faucets without air gap module)
• Protective gloves
Procedure:
A) Center punch a small indent at the desired faucet location.
B) Slowly drill the required pilot hole for the chassis punch.
C) Set up the chassis punch per instructions and tighten nut to cut the desired hole size.
D) Clean up sharp edges with a file if necessary.
Porcelain/Enamel/Ceramic on sheet metal or cast iron base;
faucet with or without air gap module:
Recommended Tools:
• Variable speed drill
• Relton porcelain cutter set 7/8” size
(alternate 9/16” porcelain bit may be used for faucets without air gap module)
• Plumbers putty
Procedure:
It is important to understand what is involved in this procedure. First, the glassy layer of porcelain must be
penetrated through to the base metal. Second, a center disc of porcelain must be removed while protecting
the surrounding porcelain against chipping or fracturing. Third, the base metal must be drilled through to
complete the hole.
A) Mark the center for the 7/8” hole.
B) Form a shallow putty dam around hole area and fill with enough water to lubricate carbide drill bit.
C) Carefully drill pilot hole through porcelain/enamel and base metal using carbide type pilot drill.
D) Insert pilot tip of spring loaded porcelain cutter into pilot hole.
E) Drill porcelain/enamel using spring loaded porcelain cutter, making certain a complete ring has been
cut through the porcelain/enamel to the base metal.
F) Change to the metal cutter. With slow speed and light pressure, cut away the inner porcelain/enamel
disc down to the base metal. Make certain that the cutter does not touch the outer rim of the cut por-
celain/enamel. Continue with this bit to cut through metal until sink has been completely penetrated.
• It is mandatory that safety glasses be worn during sink hole drilling operations to prevent eye injury.
IMPORTANT NOTES
• Always operate drill with light pressure at slow speed (300-400 rpm).
• When using a porcelain cutter, it is critical to take the precaution that it is always in a sharpened condition. Dull
cutters are known to chip sinks.
IMPORTANT NOTES
