SERVICING
15
If the windings do not test continuous or a reading is
obtained from lead to ground, replace the motor.
Checking EEM Motors
The EEM Motor is a one piece, fully encapsulated, 3 phase
brushless DC (single phase AC input) motor with ball
bearing construction. The EEM features an integral control
module.
NOTE: The GE TECMate will not operate the currently
used EEM motor.
1. Using a voltmeter, check for 230 volts to the motor
connections L and N. If 230 volts is present, proceed
to step 2. If 230 volts is not present, check the line
voltage circuit to the motor.
2. Using a voltmeter, check for 24 volts from terminal C
to either terminal 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5, depending on which
tap is being used, at the motor. If voltage is present,
proceed to step 3. If no voltage, check 24 volt circuit
to motor.
3. If voltage was present in steps 1 and 2, the motor
has failed and will need to be replaced.
NOTE: When replacing motor, ensure the belly band is
between the vents on the motor and the wiring has the
proper drip loop to prevent condensate from entering
the motor.
C L G N
1 2 3 4 5
High Voltage
Connections
3
/
16"
Low Voltage Connections
1/4
”
EEM Motor Connections
Checking ECM Motors
An ECM is an
Electronically Commutated Motor
which
offers many significant advantages over PSC motors.
The ECM has near zero rotor loss, synchronous machine
operation, variable speed, low noise, and programmable
air flow. Because of the sophisticated electronics within
the ECM motor, some technicians are intimated by the
ECM motor; however, these fears are unfounded. GE/
Regal Beloit offers two ECM motor testers, and with a VOM
meter, one can easily perform basic troubleshooting on
ECM motors. An ECM motor requires power (line voltage)
and a signal (24 volts) to operate. The ECM motor stator
contains permanent magnet. As a result, the shaft feels
“rough” when turned by hand. This is a characteristic of the
motor, not an indication of defective bearings.
WARNING
Line voltage now present.
1. Disconnect the 5-pin connector from the motor.
2. Using a volt meter, check for line voltage at terminals
#4 & #5 at the power connector. If no voltage is
present:
3. Check the unit for incoming power.
4. Check the control board.
5. If line voltage is present, reinsert the 5-pin connector
and remove the 16-pin connector.
6. Check for signal (24 volts) at the transformer.
7. Check for signal (24 volts) from the thermostat to the
“G” terminal at the 16-pin connector.
8. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity from the #1
& #3 (common pins) to the transformer neutral or “C”
thermostat terminal. If you do not have continuity, the
motor may function erratically. Trace the common
circuits, locate and repair the open neutral.
9. Set the thermostat to “Fan-On”. Using a voltmeter,
check for 24 volts between pin # 15 (G) and common.
10. Disconnect power to compressor. Set thermostat to
call for cooling. Using a voltmeter, check for 24 volts
at pin # 6 and or #14.
11. Set the thermostat to a call for heating. Using a
voltmeter, check for 24 volts at pin #2 and/or #11.
