
Yashica Twin Lens Reflex Guide - Focal Press January 1964
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The Self-timer
The Yashica reflex cameras (except models A and 44A) carry a delayed-action release or self-timer. This is controlled by
the lever with red dot in it on the camera front. To put it into action, Push this lever as far to the left as it will go after the
synchronization lever has been set to the X position. When you press the release button with the self-timer in operation,
the shutter only goes off after a delay of 8-10 seconds and you have time to take your place in your own picture. The
camera must, of course, be mounted on a tripod.
Using an Exposure Meter
To get the best results an exposure meter has to be used intelligently. This may took like a contradiction, since we have
already said that it is an accurate light-measuring instrument. But light from all parts of the subject-highlights, shadows
and middle tones falls on the meter, so the reading it gives us is an average one for the whole subject area.
Meters are scaled to suit typically average subjects - i.e., subjects with average areas of light, dark and middle tones. So if
you point the meter at a subject of this kind, the exposure reading will be correct.
But if the subject is not average - if there are large highlight areas and little shadow, or large shadow areas with few
highlights - then you have to modify the exposure reading to obtain the best results.
So there is more to using a meter than just pointing it at the subject arid accepting without question the reading indicated.
The usual method of using a meter is to point it directly at the subject. This gives the correct exposure reading provided
the subject has an average mixture of highlights. shadows and middle tones. But if there is a large bright area, or a large
dark area, the best method is to go near to the main subject and take a close-up reading. For example, if the subject is a
figure against a white or dark background, by going closer you will reduce the amount of background affecting the meter
and therefore get a reading in terms of a more average subject, which is what you want.
For some subjects you can take a reading from really close up, aiming the meter at the part of the subject that you want to
make sure has optimum exposure. For instance, many photographers take a close-up reading of the sitter's face in
portraiture; out of doors you can take the reading from the back of your hand instead of going up to the subject.
If you cannot go close up to a subject that needs a close-up reading, then try to find something near at hand that is similar
in tone to the subject arid take a reading from this.
When taking readings of general scenes including a good deal of sky, you have to tilt the meter down slightly to reduce the
area of sky "seen" by the meter. The sky is a bright highlight, and by tipping the meter down to exclude some of it, the
subject becomes "average" in tone range.
How to Interpret the Reading
Open views, such as distant landscapes, usually have very light shadows, so you can give a shorter exposure than the
meter indicates. It is usual to give half the exposure i.e., use double the shutter speed, or use one stop smaller.
AGAINST THE LIGHT subjects are extreme cases of non-average tone range. The main lighting becomes a very bright
highlight in the field of view, so if you point the meter straight at the subject it will indicate too short an exposure and give
you a silhouette effect in the final picture.
This is all right if you want a silhouette. But if you want correct exposure for the subject, you should either take a close-up
reading, or take a reflected light reading from the camera position and give four to eight times the exposure indicated.
COLOUR FILMS have little exposure latitude so particularly careful reading is advisable. The meter is used in the same
way as for black-and-white films.
Because of the importance of the highlights, if you are using a meter from the camera position for an against-the-light
shot, it is best only to double the reading, and not multiply it four to eight times as recommended for black-and-white
negative films.