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6/21/96
+12V RED WIRE:
The RED WIRE is the +12V supply. It is shown connected to the
alternator side of the alternator shunt (ASHA). Connecting it here insures a stable voltage
with little voltage drop to supply the alternator field power. The 10 Amp fuse shown should
be installed to protect the wiring.
If an isolator is in the system, the +12V (Red wire) must connect to the battery
side of the isolator.
GND WIRE BLACK:
The BLACK GND wire is the power ground. It is shown
connected to the alternator ground.
ASHB WIRE GRN:
The GREEN ASHB (alternator shunt battery side) must be
terminated on the small screw on the battery side of the alternator shunt. This wire must
be connected exactly as shown.. Since this wire is at battery voltage it should be protected
with a fuse at the shunt as shown; install the fuse after the wiring is connected. No other
wires should be connected here.
ASHA WIRE YEL:
The YELLOW ASHA (alternator shunt alternator side) must be
terminated on the small screw on the alternator side of the alternator shunt. This wire
should be connected exactly as described to ensure proper operation. Since this wire
is at battery voltage it should be protected with a fuse at the shunt as shown; install the fuse
after the wiring is connected. No other wires should be connected here.
FINAL TEST AND START UP
Do this test with the engine OFF!
If you cannot pass this test do not start the engine!
This is the final checkout. Plug the 8 conductor phone cord (the larger of the two
phone cords) into the Monitor Terminal Board and the Regulator Output Module. Check
the battery Amps, you should see the same low number as in progress check #2. The
green ON LED on the Output Module must be off.
Now we want to simulate the engine running, so turn on the regulator by turning the
key switch to the ON position, or if normally open oil pressure switch is used, jumper
together its two terminals. For this test only we want to supply voltage to the REG ON
terminal while the engine is off. The green ON LED should be ON. The red Charge Cycle
Status light on the Link 2000-R front panel should also be ON. The red CHG LED on the
Output Module, which indicates that field voltage is being supplied, should gradually
increase in brightness during the next 30 seconds. Also check the TIME function which
should display "
a000
" indicating the alternator output current is zero.
To verify that current is actually flowing into the alternator field use the LINK 2000-
R to check the number of Amps flowing from which ever battery has been selected by the
main battery switch. You should see -3 to -5 Amps of current flowing. This current is
being supplied to the alternator field, and perhaps to other instrumentation that is also
turned on with the key switch if you are not using an oil pressure switch . To verify that
it is the alternator field consuming the current, turn off the power to the REG ON terminal
and disconnect the FIELD (or REG OUT) wire from the alternator field. Repeat the test.
The current should now be about 2 to 4 Amps less than it was. This test assures you that
the regulator is supplying the field current. Another easy way to test if the field is energized
is to check the magnetism of the rotor by touching the end of the shaft with a steel
screwdriver. Do it with the regulator turned on, (wait 20 seconds for ramp up cycle) and
with it turned off, there should be a noticeable difference. If you can not pass this test see
