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41.
Glue the bottom slice of the foam plug into the bottom of the servo cut-out hole forming a
base for the servo recess. Use the marks on its front side and top to orientate it correctly,
ensuring a perfect fit.
42.
Repeat this process for the second servo recess on the other side of the wing.
43.
Mark out the area next to the servo recess required to accommodate the servo arm and its
movement. It will be about 10mm (3/8”) wide by 20mm (3/4”) long. Cut out a triangular
shaped wedge down to the depth of the servo recess’s floor.
44.
Repeat for the second servo recess on the other side of the wing.
45.
Mark out an area next to the receiver to accommodate the excess length in the battery and
servo leads (and electronic elevon mixer if used). An area approximately 30mm by 40mm (1
3/16” by 1 9/16”) is usually enough. Cut out a foam plug using the same method used for
the battery, receiver and servo recesses and glue back in a 5mm to 10mm (3/16 to 3/8”) slice
to form a base. Keep the remainder of the foam plug for later use.
46.
Cut slits into the top surface of the wing to accommodate the battery lead and servo leads
inserted on edge. Twist the leads half a rotation where that cross the spar so that they lie flat
over the top of the spar at the crossing point. Avoid cutting into the spar itself.
47.
The receiver antenna should be kept clear (and avoid any crossing) of the servo leads,
battery leads and spar if possible in order to avoid possible interference with the radio signal
from the transmitter. If a crossing is required it’s best to orientate it at 90 degrees to
minimise electromagnetic effects.
48.
Cut a slit for the receiver antenna that loops around and then runs up about 25mm (1”) in
from the foam sub-trailing edge of one of the wing halves.
49.
Fit the battery pack, receiver and servos
into their recesses. Plug everything
together and test that it is working
correctly. Make sure the servo arms are
centered in the correct position when the
transmitter in on and its trims are neutral.
The servo arms should be pointing directly
upwards, or leaning just slightly rearwards.
Unscrew the servo arms and adjust if
required. Also check for correct direction
of servo travel. Viewed from above, when
your transmitter’s elevator stick is pulled
back for “up” control, both servo arms
should move forwards (towards the leading edge of the wing), and both servo arms should
move backwards when “down” control is applied. When your transmitter’s aileron stick is
moved to the right for “right roll” control, the right servo arm should move forwards and the
left servo arm backwards, and opposite when “left roll” control is applied.
50.
Perform a “range check” for your radio equipment now. You should be able to control the
servos smoothly from at least 10 to 15 paces away with your transmitter’s aerial retracted
(not extended at all).
51.
Once you are satisfied that your radio equipment is functioning correctly it’s time to start
building it into your glider. Soon retrieval of radio equipment will require surgery on your
glider so it is best to make any necessary adjustments or repairs now. Also keep in mind that
you will need to have access to a means of charging your receiver’s battery pack once it is
embedded into the glider. This can be by means of a special switch with charging socket or
as simple as having access to the battery pack’s plug (perhaps just having it plug into an
exposed socket of your receiver).
