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1. Air damper open too far for ignition.
Push the air damper in closer to the side of the stove for
startup. In some situations, it may be necessary to have the
damper completely closed for ignition to take place. After
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desired feed setting.
2. Blockage in igniter tube or inlet for igniter tube.
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air intake hole is a small hole located on the bottom side of
the housing. Make sure it is clear. Also, look from the front
of the stove to make sure there is not any debris around the
igniter element inside of the igniter housing.
3. The burnpot is not pushed completely to the rear of
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Make sure that the air intake collar on the burnpot is touch-
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4. Bad igniter element.
Put power directly to the igniter element. Watch the tip of the
igniter from the front of the stove. After about 2 minutes, the
tip should glow. If it does not, the element is bad.
The control board is not sending power to the igniter.
Check the voltage going to the igniter during startup. It
should be a full current. If the voltage is lower than full cur-
rent, check the wiring. If the wiring checks out good, the
board is bad.
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1. There is a leak in the vent pipe system.
Inspect all vent pipe connections. Make sure they are
sealed with RTV silicone that has a temperature rating of
500
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combustion blower has been properly sealed with the same
RTV.
2. The gasket on the combustion blower has gone
bad.
Inspect both gaskets on the combustion blower to make
sure they are in good shape.
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1. The convection blower is overheating and
tripping the internal temperature shutoff.
Clean any dust off the windings and fan blades. If clearing
the blower does not help, the blower may be bad.
2. Circuit board malfunction.
Test the current going to the convection blower. If there is
power being sent to the blower when it is shut off, the
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blower when it shuts off during operation, then you have a
bad control board.
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