28
Sheets
: Lines holding the lower corners of
a sail or boom. When not in use, sails are
furled
(bundled on the yards, booms, or
masts).
Clew lines
pull up the corners of a
square sail,
leechlines
pull up the sides, and
buntlines
pull up the belly for furling the
sail.
Brails
are like buntlines, except they
pull loose-footed fore and aft sails toward
the mast for furling.
Bowlines
, attached to
the sides of a square sail, pull it forward.
These are used primarily on 18th century
and older ships.
Reef bands
: Horizontal reinforcing bands
on the sail. They have short lengths of
rope called
reef points
. In heavy weather,
sailors tie the reef points to a yard or
boom to shorten the sail.
Parrels or parrals
: Lines or ribs and trucks
for holding yards, booms, and gaffs to
their respective masts and spars. A
truss,
jeer
, and
sling
are similar to a parrel.
These are lines or iron fittings holding a
yard up and against the mast. They are
most common on stationary lower yards.
Braces
: Lines attached to yardarms for
directing a yard's angle and holding it
taut.
Lifts
are standing or running lines for
holding yards when lowering or tilting
them. A t
opping lift
is a line holding up the
end of a boom when the gaff is down or
absent.
Vangs
, port and starboard lines,
prevent a gaff from swinging sideways.
1. Rigging Options
Like the real ship, the model can be rigged
four ways; with sails fully set, furled, some
furled and others set or partially reefed, or
without sails. The choice is yours.
Full set including fore and aft and square sails
:
Not many modelers go to this extreme,
because the mass of sails obscures most
deck and spar details. Sails are the first
item to deteriorate on a model. They
look better on a ship at sea.
Sails furled, yards lowered on their lifts
:
Here is a pleasing compromise. Reality
is maintained without sacrificing detail.
Sails furled and hoisted
: This creates the illu-
sion of a ship in port with some sails still
drying after a day's run. Mix furled sails
with open ones or sails half up. Possibilities
abound, so look for a pleasing effect. Study
marine paintings for ideas. John Stobart's
work is an ideal reference.
No sails, gaffs lowered on the booms
: Now
the ship is in port with her sails
removed for repairs. Most modelers
choose this approach, and beginners
should definitely opt for it.
2. Rigging Plans
Sheets 5 and 6 show the masts and spars
with attendant rigging. They are drawn
so every line is clear and its belaying
point known. Sheet 5 shows standing
and running rigging for fore and aft sails.
Sheet 6 shows the rig for square sails.
Study the plans and have a complete pic-
ture of each rig before starting. Do this
and everything will proceed smoothly.
3. Rigging Line and Block Sizes
Because more line diameters are shown
on the plans than provided in the kit,
use the following guide:
Use every available diameter to enhance the
model's scalelike appearance. Additional
diameter lines are commercially available.
Some modelers substitute the kit's nylon
cordage with linen or cotton lines.
Block are in scale inches, but not all are
commercially available. Follow this guide:
Options
: Sand a block to more closely
match the plan size or scratch build them.
4. Treating the Lines
Worming, Parceling, & Serving:
Lines on
ships were wormed, parceled, and served
wherever chafing might occur. Shrouds
are a prime example. Worming inserts
thin pieces of line (worms) between the
strands. Parceling winds canvas strips
saturated with tar around the wormed
part. Then the wormed and parceled area
is
served
(bound in the opposite direction
with spun yarn). Serving is the only pro-
cedure recommended for the model.
However, most modelers prefer to use
cordage as is after applying a heavy coat
of beeswax. Those striving for authentici-
ty should serve only the largest shrouds
and stays with fine silk, polyester or linen
thread. Avoid cotton. It's too fuzzy.
Seizings:
Seize lines with linen, polyester,
nylon, or silk thread. Do not secure lines
with knots. Knots are for shoelaces.
Touch seizings with diluted white glue
or thin cyano (Figure 7-1).
Beeswax:
Protects lines against moisture
and lays down fuzz. To soften beeswax,
hold it to a light bulb. Run the line across
the beeswax, then through your fingers
to soften and smooth it. Do this several
times to thoroughly coat the line.
Lines on plan Lines in kit
Less than 0.016"
0.010"
0.016" to 0.021"
0.021"
0.022" to 0.031"
0.031"
Greater than 0.031"
0.041"
Blocks Sizes Blocks in Kit
3/64" to 3/32"
3/32"
7/64" and 1/8"
1/8"
9/64" and 5/32"
5/32"
11/64" and 3/16"
3/16"
Deadeyes
and Bullseyes
In Kit
1/16" to 7/64"
3/32"
1/8" to 9/64"
1/8"
FORE TOP
