19
Mounting the Hull
Mount the hull as soon as basic framing
and planking are completed to prevent
damaging fittings when handling the
model. Proper mounting is important,
because future alignments will require a
true waterline. Two brass pedestals and
a baseboard are supplied. Another
approach to displaying the model is on
a launching ways. Scratch build the
platform or purchase the kit. Model
Expo sells them.
Models should be cased to protect them
from dirt and damage. Furthermore, most
competitions require entries to be cased. A
case is a cheap insurance policy. However,
the kit's baseboard may be too small to
serve as the base for the case. A case's out-
side diameter should be 4" longer than the
model (2" fore and aft), 4" wider (2" port
and starboard) and 2" higher. If the base-
board doesn't measure 47" long by 15"
wide, make a new one to accept a case.
1. Mounting Board
with Two Pedestals
Round the top edges of the baseboard or
cut a simple chamfer. Those with access
to a router can cut mouldings along the
edges. Paint or stain the baseboard.
Alternatives: Prefinished baseboards are
available or make your own from bass-
wood or more exotic woods like cherry,
walnut, bubinga, and rosewood.
Mount the model with the waterline par-
allel to the baseboard. Because
Niagara
has
a slight drag to her keel, the forward
pedestal must be a little taller than the aft
one. Therefore, shim the forward pedestal;
or, better yet, modify its top. Drill pilot
holes in the keel and baseboard for the
pedestal screws. If something goes awry
and the balance is off, add a brass shim
under one pedestal to correct it.
2. Launching Ways
Models without sails display best on a
launching ways. They are easy to assem-
ble and fasten to a baseboard. With a large
enough baseboard, a builder can create a
diorama based on a shipyard activity.
Drill holes in the keel for the anchoring
rods, then follow the directions to achieve
the proper waterline level.
Note: Stain or paint the baseboard or
launching ways before mounting the hull.
Adding the Hull Details
1. Locating Deck Fittings
and Structures
If hatch and companionway coamings were
not installed when planking the deck, locate
them along with the fife rails, pin rails, boat
davits, galley stack, bowsprit bitts, stern
bitts, capstan, and catheads. To locate items,
measure from a known bench mark such as
the centerline or center of a mast. Lightly
mark their positions in pencil on the deck.
Although installing eyebolts and cleats can
wait, doing it now means they'll be ready
when rigging commences. Once they're
mounted, clean and varnish the deck.
2. Deck Structures
These consist of a companionway and
two skylights (Figure 5-1). Build them
from 1/32" or 1/16" basswood sheets or
as planked structures. Another alterna-
tive is to make them from basswood
blocks (not provided). Use microscope
slides or clear acrylic for window panes,
and paint their undersides light blue.
Cut window bars from brass wire; or,
fake it and paint them on.
STAGE 4
Fig 5-1 Deck Structures
STAGE 5
Optional tabs to secure
sides to coaming
Slide top
Slide
Sill
1/32" or 1/16" thick
Molding for panels
Lift out panels
Top
Use planks or solid
sheet
Deck
Typical Coaming
Companionway
Window Glass & Bars
Real Ship Plank
Corner Joints
Simplified Model
Corner
Glass, or plastic inside
Brass rod or paint
lines on glass
4 Bars in Capt. skylight,
3 bars in others
