4
be recognized by an Underscan-Normal switch. (In the
underscan position, the active video area is bordered
with black.)
This is because ordinary monitors and TV sets
have varying degrees of “overscan.” The picture is
larger than the picture tube, so the edges are cut off. The
amount of underscan is not well standardized, may not
be centered, may be out of adjustment, and may hide
defects that could be seen on a different TV set. For
example, the film may be out of frame so that the
frameline is visible on some receivers but not others. Or, a piece of lint may be lodged on the
edge of the aperture and working its way into the frame. To guarantee that the frameline or
hairs will not be visible to anyone, no matter how their TV set may be adjusted, the transfer
process should be watched with an underscan monitor so the entire video signal can be seen.
There can be small artifacts on the extreme edges, such as dirt specks stuck to the aperture,
which will not be a problem as the customer will not see the entire video frame on his TV set.
When demonstrating the process or results to the public, the monitor should be switched
back to the Normal position to prevent misunderstandings or long explanations.
If an Underscan monitor is not available, you can manage with one having Pulse Cross
(Pulse Delay.) This puts the corners of the picture in the middle of the screen. It is possible to
use this function to check for framing and hairs although it is less convenient and can be
confusing.
It is also possible to use a device called a Line Doubler or Scaler, and a conventional
SVGA CRT computer monitor with size adjustments, to accomplish a similar underscanned
result instead of buying a more expensive underscanning video monitor. However, there will
not be a single button for switching between the underscan position and normal, and the left or
right edge of the picture may be missing some of the area that would be visible on a true
underscanned video monitor.
Other Needs
Film will be received from the public in various states of disrepair, with bad splices,
winding turned over on the reel, being mounted on the wrong type reel or the wrong way out,
no leaders, etc. and a facility must be provided for making the footage ready for transfer. This
requires at the minimum a pair of film rewinds, with adapters if needed for super-8 reels, a
supply of film leader and empty reels, a film splicer, and a way of cleaning excess dirt off the
film. Ideally there will be a light box for looking through the film, and a light above the editing
bench to reflect light off the film.
Refer to the first section of these instructions for a description of how the film should be
wound on the reel. There should be at least 4 feet of leader in good condition on the start for
proper threading of the TVT-S8S, and enough leader on the end to thread the film cleaning
device. Torn film sprocket holes and crooked splices should be removed to prevent transfer
problems.
Small rolls should be spliced together for fast and efficient transfer. A properly made
cement splice, using fresh cement, is preferred. The smoothest transit of splices occurs when
you have made a beveled splice using an (unfortunately discontinued) Agfa or Bolex splicer,
Conventional TV
or Monitor Cuts
Off Picture
Underscanned
Monitor Shows
All The Video So
No Surprises
