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Ultra-Aire 65H Installer’s & Owner’s Manual
Unit removes some water, but not as much as expected.
1. Air temperature and/or humidity have dropped.
2. Humidity meter and or thermometer used are
out of calibration.
3. Unit has entered defrost cycle.
4. Air filter dirty.
5. Defective defrost thermostat.
6. Low refrigerant charge.
7. Air leak such as loose cover or ducting leaks.
8. Defective compressor.
9. Restrictive ducting.
10.Optional Condensate Pump Safety Switch open.
Unit Test to determine problem:
1. Detach field control wiring connections from main unit.
2. Connect the yellow and green pigtails from the main
unit together; only the fan should run. Disconnect the
wires.
3. Connect the yellow and blue pigtails from the main unit
together; the compressor and fan should run.
4. If these tests work, the main unit is working properly.
You should check the control panel and field control
wiring for problems next.
5. Remove the control panel from the mounting box and
detach it from the field installed control wiring. Connect
the blue, yellow, and green wires from the control
panel directly to the corresponding colored pigtails on
the main unit. Leave the violet, white and red wires
disconnected!
6. Turn on the fan switch; the fan should run. Turn off the
fan switch.
7. Turn on the humidity control; the compressor and fan
should run.
8. If these tests work, the problem is most likely in the
field control wiring.
10.3 Refrigerant Charging
If the refrigerant charge is lost due to service or a leak, a
new charge must be accurately weighed in. If any of the
old charge is left in the system, it must be recovered before
weighing in the new charge. Refer to the unit nameplate for
the correct charge weight and refrigerant type.
10.4 Compressor/Capacitor Replacement
This compressor is equipped with a two terminal external
overload and a run capacitor, but no start capacitor or relay.
CAUTION
CAUTION-ELECTRICAL SHOCK HAZARD: Electrical power
must be present to perform some tests. These tests
should be performed by a qualified service person.
10.5 Electric Ventilation Damper
The damper will open when the ventilation is called for,
allowing fresh air into the structure through the fresh air
inlet duct. The electric ventilation damper will remain closed
when the ventilation is not activated in order to prevent
over-ventilating the structure when the unit is dehumidifying
or recirculating the indoor air. The electric ventilation damper
operates on 24 Vac from the control circuit. DO NOT connect
high voltage to the damper motor or damage to the motor
will result. DO NOT force the blade of the damper by hand or
damage to the damper motor may result.
The damper opens in one direction only. The damper rotates
very slowly, allow sufficient time for the damper to cycle. The
damper will take approximately one minute to cycle from
closed to open or from open to closed.
If the electric ventilation damper fails to operate:
1. Check that the wiring is correct and that voltage is
present at the damper motor.
2. Check for any obstruction inside the damper. If the
electric ventilation damper fails to operate after
performing these checks, it must be replaced.
FOR HVAC INSTALLER ONLY