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nboard Camber Location
: The 810 has two different inner
locations with vertical adjustment for the front camber tie
rod. In general, the lower or further out the inside position
is, relative to the outside, the more camber gain (total
camber change through the total throw of the suspension)
is present. This is an adjustment that is difficult to make a
generic statement as it can have slightly different results in
various conditions. The following is a summary of how this
adjustment will usually impact the handling of the 810. A
longer front camber link will usually make the 810 feel stiffer.
This will help keep the 810 flatter with less roll, but can make
the 810 handle worse in bumpy conditions, it also will make
the 810 easier to drive. A shorter front camber link will result
in more front end roll, which will provide more steering on
tighter turns with the loss of some stability. You will also
lose some high-speed steering but might gain some more
steering response. Too short of a front link may make the 810
feel “twitchy” or “wandery” meaning that it may be difficult to
drive straight at high speed.
Inboard Camber Vertical Adjustment
: In general the
upper hole will make the 810 more stable and keep the front
end flatter. This works well on higher traction surfaces. The
lower location will make the steering more aggressive which
works well on lower traction surfaces. This can be good in
some conditions but can also make the 810 difficult to drive
in others.
Toe-In/Out
: This is the parallel relationship of the front tires to
one another. Toe-in/out adjustments are made by changing
the overall length of the steering tie rods. Toe-in (the front
of the tires point inward, to a point in front of the front axle)
will make the 810 react a little slower, but have more steering
from the middle of the turn, out. The opposite is true with
toe-out (the front of the tires point outward, coming to a
point behind the front axle), the 810 will turn into the corner
better but with a decrease in steering from the middle of
the turn, out. Toe-in will help the 810 to track better on long
straight high-speed runs, where toe-out has a tendency
to make the 810 wander. We recommend to run between
0-degree of toe-in/out to 1 degree of toe-in.
Tuning the Rear End of the 810
Shock Location
: Moving the shocks out on the arm will result
in less forward traction and let the 810 make more of an arc
through the exit of the turn. In general, when changing shock
locations on the arm, it will be necessary to go down one
spring rate when moving out on the arm.
Static Camber
: Having the same definition as for the front
end and measured in the same fashion, rear camber can
also be a critical tuning feature. Testing has shown that
running a small amount of negative camber (.5-1 degree) is
best. Increasing negative rear camber (in the range of 1.5-3
degrees) will increase stability and traction in corners, but
decrease high-speed stability. Decreasing rear camber (in the
range of 0-1.5 degrees) will decrease stability and traction in
corners, but will increase high-speed stability.
Inboard Camber Location
: The 810 has two inner camber
link locations. These locations work in the same fashion and
have the same effect as noted for the front. You will find that
you will get more noticeable changes with the outer locations
in the hub. In general the upper hole will make the 810
more stable and keep the front end flatter. This works well
on higher traction surfaces. The lower location will make the
steering more aggressive which works well on lower traction
surfaces. This can be good in some conditions but can also
make the 810 difficult to drive in others.
Outboard Camber Location
: Running the camber link in
the inside position on the hub will generate more rotation
entering a turn, but decrease steering on exit. Running the
camber link in the furthest outer position on the hub will
generate more stability entering a turn and increase steering
on exit.
Toe-In
: Having the same definition as for the front end, the
toe-in can be adjusted on the 810 with the rear hubs. The
stock toe-in is 3 degrees of inboard per side and 0 degrees
in the hub. Increasing rear toe-in will increase forward
traction and initial steering, but reduce straightaway speed.
Decreasing rear toe-in will decrease forward traction and
“free-up” the 810. Less toe-in can be used to gain top speed.
Ride Height
: This is the height of the chassis in relation to
the surface. It is an adjustment that affects the way your 810
jumps, turns and goes through bumps. To check the ride
height, drop one end (front or rear) of the 810 from about a
5 to 6-inch height onto a flat surface. Once the 810 settles
into a position, check the height of that end of the 810 in
relationship to the surface. To raise the ride height, lower the
shock adjuster nuts on the shock evenly on the end (front
or rear) of the 810 that you are working on. To lower the ride
height, raise the shock adjuster nuts. Both left and right nuts
should be adjusted evenly. Check the setup sheet included
and for additional setup information visit www.losi.com.
