Tartan 4100, Owner'S Manual, Page: 41 / 54

T4100 OM rev2
Page 37 of 50
14.0 LAYING UP FOR WINTER
14.1 Hauling
The proper placement of slings and supports is most important when hauling out. Improper placement
stresses the hull and may result in gelcoat fractures or other damage. Slings should never be placed on the
saildrive leg. The forward sling is to be placed in the area of the forward main bulkhead. To prevent the
slings coming into contact with the vinyl rub rail, the hull may be padded with carpet, placed flat against
the hull just below the cove line. Tie a line between the slings fore and aft to prevent them from slipping.
14.2 Cradle Support
When hauling on a marine railway or placing the yacht in its storage cradle at least 60% of the weight of
the yacht should be on the keel. The hull supports should not bear more than 30% to 36% of the weight
of the yacht, otherwise structural damage may result if these weight percentages are not followed. Do not
put weight on the keel further aft than the last keel bolt. The extreme aft tip of the keel is tapered to a thin
section and will accept little weight without the possibility of bending (see 3.5). It may be necessary to go
through the loading process two or three times, checking the keel position relative to the center line of the
cradle, before it is finally positioned,
14.3
When the Yacht Is Hauled
Scrub down the bottom to remove any marine growth and grease. Wash down the topsides and deck. All
gear that may be damaged by cold or damp, such as clothing, life jackets, books, batteries etc., should be
removed from the yacht and placed in a warm, dry storage area. All cushions should be stored on edge
allowing air to circulate freely to reduce the chance of mold. Lubricate and cover all exposed mechanical
fittings to guard against ice or snow. Check all electrical and mechanical components on the yacht and
remove those needing service or replacement during the winter. Cover any exposed holes.
It will only be necessary to winterize the raw water side of the engine's cooling system. The freshwater
side should always contain antifreeze of a type appropriate for your particular climate.
Refer to the engine Owner's Manual. Remove the engine drain plugs. The engine Owner’s Manual or
your Tartan Dealer may be consulted for the location and quantity of these plugs. After allowing drainage
for five to ten minutes, replace the plugs and secure. Remove the engine water inlet hose from the
seacock and place this hose end in a gallon container of automotive antifreeze. Start the engine and run
until the antifreeze comes out of the exhaust outlet. Stop the engine. Replace the inlet hose on the
seacock and tighten the hose clamps. Antifreeze will now be distributed throughout the cooling system as
well as in the muffler. It is recommended that the drain plugs be again removed and the engine drained
for total protection. Place a wooden plug in the exhaust outlet in the stern and shut off the fuel tank valve.
14.4 Fresh
Water System
Pump the system dry. Pour a minimum of 2 gallons of recreational vehicle antifreeze (this is a non-toxic
formula appropriate for potable water tanks) into the water tanks. Pump the antifreeze throughout the
fresh water system by operating each fixture, ie. faucets, shower, etc. Remove the inspection port on the
top of the water tank and dry the interior of the tank with a cloth. Place some baking soda in an open
glass container and position this in the tank. Lay the inspection port back in place.
Note: Although the water system is being stored essentially "dry", do not forget to flush the system
thoroughly at re-commissioning. Read through the above schedule to ensure that the tank is ready to
be re-filled and is watertight.