Stewart MacDonald 5295, Assembly Instructions Manual

Page: 6 / 40

stewmac.com
Save the cardboard box your kit came in.
Cut away the
sides of the box and use the large top and bottom to create
a double-thick cardboard surface on your workboard .
Each bent guitar side has been formed from a tapered piece
of wood . One of the longer edges is straight (the guitar top)
and the other is slightly curved (the back) . Place the sides,
straight edges down
, on the cardboard and butt the ends
together . The sides shouldn’t rock on the workboard surface .
Pencil accurately measured centerlines on the neck block
and the tailblock, and align these marks against the inner
seams of the adjoining guitar sides . The open top of the
neck block must face
downward against the workboard ,
and both blocks must be flush with the sides at the top and
bottom .
Dry-clamp the two blocks to the sides, place a piece of wood
across the waist, and rest a weight (a couple of bricks worked
for us) on the piece of wood
(pictured)
to keep the sides
flat against the cardboard . Now readjust the neck block and
tailblock while the sides are weighted down .
KIT TIP: Dry clamping
It’s important to try fitting and clamping kit pieces
before you use glue . Practice a “dry run” to make
sure you have all the clamps and cauls needed
before glue is applied . We found that using an acid
flux brush (common in hardware stores) helps to
apply the glue evenly on the surface .
The neck block is beveled on the surfaces which will contact
the top and back of the guitar . The back side of the neck
block has a fairly steep 5° angle to match the arch of the
back; the open top of the neck block has a shallower 1-1/2°
taper . Trace around the neck block onto the cardboard, and
use a sharp knife to cut along that line through the first layer
of cardboard . Don’t cut the edge where the block meets
the guitar sides . This allows you to compress the cardboard
downward to make clearance for the 1-1/2° taper of the
neck block as you press it down against the flat surface of
the cardboard . Viewed from the side, in cross-section, both
ends of the neck block are flush where they meet the sides,
but are higher than the sides as they taper up toward the
interior of the guitar .
The side of the neck block that touches the guitar sides is
curved . A clamping caul with matching curvature
(illus-
trated)
should be prepared from scrap wood and placed
against the outer side seam . The same caul will fit both the
neck block and tailblock areas .
KIT TIP: Cauls
You’ll need scrap wood to make cauls that will be
used throughout assembly . Cauls are used to apply
even pressure while glue dries, and to protect the
guitar’s surface from the clamps .
Remove the clamps and, one at a time, apply Titebond glue
to the inner block surfaces . Reclamp using four clamps per
block . Wipe off the excess glue with a damp cloth and let
the assembly dry overnight before unclamping . Use waxed
paper to prevent the wooden parts from being glued to the
cardboard surface .
Side Assembly
Assembling the sides
Clamping caul with
curved face
Use
waxed
paper to
protect
guitar
sides
Use four
clamps
Cut the
corrogated
board to fit
the angled
face of the
neck block
Neck
block
5° taper for back
1-1/2° taper for top
4