Stewart MacDonald 5295, Assembly Instructions Manual

Page: 17 / 40

stewmac.com
Interior strip: Fine black/white or herringbone trim
Outside strip: 7/32" tall for black or
white binding
Outside strip: 7/32" tall for black or
white binding
Soundboard
Kerfed lining
Guitar side
Kerfed lining
Guitar back
KIT TIP: Router base compensation
Here’s a tip for routing the top and back more ac-
curately: The arch of the top, and especially the
back, will change the router alignment . Coupled
with any irregularities in the wood, this can cause
the routed channel to be too deep or too shallow .
You can avoid this by wrapping several layers of
1/4"-wide masking tape around the ball-bearing
for the first cut, and peeling them off gradually for
successive cuts . Measure the depth of cut for each
pass until it’s correct . Likewise, lower the router bit
gradually in several passes to reach the final correct
channel height .
Unlike the slightly radiused top, the significant 5°
back arch makes it more difficult to keep the router
square to the sides for an accurate vertical cut . Make
a 5° wedge the same size as your router baseplate
and attach it to the baseplate with double-stick
tape
(illustrated) . You’ll use this wedge for routing
from the neck block area all the way to the last brace
in the lower bout . You’ll stop there, remove the
wedge, readjust the height of the bit, and finish the
cut to the center of the tailblock before stopping
again . This will be repeated on the opposite side of
the body . With the router unplugged, practice with
the wedge and try to keep the router bit square to
the sides . It won’t be perfectly square everywhere
at all times, but should give excellent results .
You’ll need to swing out as you reach the first shoul-
der, swing in as you near the waist, and swing out as
you approach the last brace . This isn’t easy if you’re
also trying to make the climb-cuts to avoid tear-out .
If you ignore the climb-cuts and rout the entire back
in a counterclockwise direction you’ll have more
control . In that case, lower the bit in several passes,
and use tape on the ball-bearing to make shallower
cuts in stages, to eliminate tear-out .
The first pass is for the interior strips (herringbone or black/
white, depending on your kit) and is made with the appro-
priate bearing on the cutter bit . The router bit should be set
to cut a shallow ledge and a width to accommodate both
the interior strip and the outside binding (black or white,
depending on your kit) . Make practice cuts on scrap wood,
check the fit of the trim strips before routing the actual chan-
nels . Once starting the routing on the guitar body, check the
fit before going very far to be sure both the depth and the
width are correct .
The second pass is for cutting the recess for the outside
binding (black or white, depending on your kit) . For a tra-
ditional appearance, route this slot no taller that 7/32" . For
this cut, use the 3/4" diameter bearing . It will cut a slot that
will accommodate the binding and the glue . Again test this
cut on a piece of scrap wood, preferably the same piece
where you adjusted the first cut . When the cut is adjusted,
dry fit both pieces of binding in the stepped slot to be sure
they will both fit . The outside strip of binding will extend
slightly above the level of the top to be scraped flush when
the glue dries .
After routing the top and back, use a file to smooth out any
irregularities in the routed channels, especially around the
back of the body .
5
°
wedge
between
router base
and back
of guitar
Guitar
body
15