Stewart MacDonald 5295, Assembly Instructions Manual

Page: 10 / 40

stewmac.com
Glue the purflings in place with Titebond and press them
firmly into the channels . A flat clamping caul covered in wax
paper will seat them well . After drying, scrape the purflings
flush to the surface of the soundboard, using a sharp scraper
blade . Flex the scraper slightly as you work, and trim the
purflings until the tool begins to pick up bits of spruce .
Soundboard bracing and fitting
Installing the soundhole rosette
Installing the soundboard bracing
Three bent wooden purflings form the soundhole rosette .
The two narrow rings composed of parallel black and white
strips install in the inner and outer rings of the rosette, and
the wide decorative ring goes in the middle channel .
The purflings are longer than needed, to enable the removal
of the straightened ends on each ring left from the bending
process . Dry-fit the three rings in their channels . Trim the
ends closely at a slight angle to compensate for the curve of
the channel . The outer and center ring joints will be hidden
under the fretboard, so you don’t have to be too critical with
the fit of the ends . However, be careful to trim the inner ring
accurately, as it will be exposed . Trim the outer and center
rings first for practice, and then concentrate on the inner
ring . A few extra minutes of careful work here will make a
big difference in the appearance of the final instrument .
Using the bracing pattern, pencil the soundboard bracing
pattern
(pictured)
on the inside surface of the soundboard
(cut small holes in the pattern at the corners and intersec-
tions of the braces, lay the pattern on the soundboard,
transfer the hole positions in pencil, and “connect the dots”
on the soundboard when the blueprint is lifted away) . The
pattern MUST be correctly centered along the soundboard’s
center seam, with the soundhole properly located . Note that
the soundboard and the back have been trimmed to allow
about 1/8" overhang all around . This offers a little freedom
when assembling the top and back to the rim, and will be
trimmed away later .
The two long X-braces (T-1 on the blueprint), the tall front
shoulder brace (T-5), and the tone-bars (T-2) are radiused .
The flat shoulder brace and the four small braces (T-3) are
not radiused .
With the soundboard face down on your workboard, place
these two X-braces on the penciled lines and mark where
they cross . With a razor saw, notch the radiused T-1 braces
so they interlock . Using the rigid workboard, dry-clamp the
ends in place, flat to the soundboard
(pictured) . Clamp
the center of the “X” down, using one or two long cam
clamps . The combination of the curved braces and the rigid
workboard will produce the proper soundboard arch when
the clamps are removed .
As shown in the blueprint, the ends of the T-2 tone-bars,
the four small T-3 braces, and the maple bridge plate tuck
under the X-braces . File these notches in the X-braces at a
45° angle
(pictured ) . Using a sharp chisel, carefully shape
a matching angle on one end of these braces where they
8