6
9.
Trim the weight to match the profile just created in step 8
10.
Grind off the battery box faces flush with the walkway sides
11.
Grind away the area on the chassis walkway side edges so that slides into the body freely
12.
At each corner of the Bachmann chassis, running board remove a 2mm x 2mm section as per the photo below
Bogies:
1.
Trim the brake block shoes and clasp extensions flush with the bogie side frames
2.
Using a small screwdriver and at one end of the bogie insert it and gently twist so that the bogie frame separates from the
bogie mechanism. Note the orientation of the wheels and gears are before total removal
3.
File the bogie sides down so that the raised detail is flat with the background main shape
4.
Trim the excess flash from each of the T class cast bogie side frames and glue these to the face of the bogie side frame.
See the photo below of the model or prototype pictures to gauge placement
Chassis Mechanism re-assembly:
1.
Using any notes or phone /camera shots, reassemble the chassis with bogies, grease the gears and install the DCC decoder
board. Resolder the bogie wires to the board
2.
Glue (P23) wooden walkway to the top of the Bachmann chassis so that the cab end is placed over the original cab end of
the chassis. I.e. the area where the weight with the 2 screws was originally
3.
Adapt or trim the light from the DCC board as it will foul the body at its normal height
4.
Glue the battery box/fuel tank to the chassis so the battery boxes are facing the cab end
5.
Glue the 2 wooden coupler spacers to the underside of the chassis in front of the bogie towers
After 12 months my original Bachmann DCC board died so I replaced it with DigiTrax DZ126
Painting:
The brass body: The whole etch needs to be cleaned before priming and final colour application. All excess solder should be
minimised. There are several ways of cleaning brass but to bathe the brass in warmed Vinegar for 20 minutes is recommended,
then wash with fresh water and then air dry before applying an etch primer. Some people skip the priming stage if they are using
water-based acrylics or use a sandblaster.
VR Blue and Gold era: - Steam Era diesel blue: Cab roof, loco shell and exhaust stack depending on the era. Black:
Underframe, bogies, air tanks, handrails and associated gear. Silver: Exhaust stack depending on the era, fuel sight gauges,
windscreen wipers, central side window pillar and horns depending on the era. Red: Horn trumpet ends depending on the era.
Steam Era diesel yellow: handrails depending on the era, nose face and the long hood face ends as per prototype photos
V/Line Orange and Grey era: - Steam era V/Line Orange: valance sides, nose faces and nose handrails, cab sides only and
headstocks/pilots. Steam Era V/line Diesel Grey: All other areas except staircases. Black: staircases, fuel tanks and bogies.
Silver: exhaust and middle bar of the cab window. White: all walkway handrails only
Numberplates and number boards in lights: Depending on your era the numberplate background will be either diesel blue or
black, which is the most common. If painting a blue background polish the plate first before coating. Once the paint is applied
carefully, wipe away the paint on the raised numbers, class letter and border. For black numberplates, repeat the steps above.
Then lightly paint a round toothpick in a small section with white paint and then gently roll this across the raised sections of the
numberplates to paint the detail.
The paper number plates are best trimmed as close as possible to their respective white edges and applied to the loco using
Microscale clear water-based topcoats as this acts as a glue as well as allowing you to put a water-based topcoat over an existing
enamel or water-based VR Royal Blue
Decals:
The Blue and Gold era chevrons and stripes are the highest quality decals on the market and have been especially screen printed for
Spirit Design to match Steam Era Diesel Yellow. They also feature a unique border fractionally wider than the artwork work. This
means you can cut away from the decal and when soaking off, only the artwork with the small clear border will come away. No
New Cab end
Original
Bachmann cab
end weight now
becomes the long
hood end
