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5.

 

 

Cab: 
 

1.

 

Fold lines are on the inside of the cab (P6).  The main front of the cab has 2 high windows side by side and this goes 
towards the short nose.  Fold each of the sides 90 degrees and workaround until the 2 high windows of the cab rear meet 
squarely in the centre.  Butt solder the back 2 high window halves together forming the cab into a box shape.  Solder along 
the internal fold lines of the cab.  Try not to fill the handrail holes in the fold line of the cab, which are just below the 
window line.  If you do just drill them out slowly with a pin vice 

 

Cab roof: 
 

1.

 

Depending on the era being modelled you can opt to have vigilance bumps on the cab roof (P7) or not.  To create them, 
whilst the cab is in the etch use a small blunt nail and push the 3 vigilance bubbles on the underside of the cab where the 
fold lines are etched.  There are 3 trial bumps for you to test your technique in the main etch just next to the cab 

2.

 

Bend each side of the cab roof to match the cab formed in the previous steps.  Fold lines are on the inside of the roof.  Do 
not solder the cab roof on as it glued on last after painting and windows have been inserted into the cab 

Assembly of the main components to the walkway: 
 

1.

 

Make sure that the staff exchanger recesses in the cab (P6) are pointing towards the small nose end of the walkway; insert 
the cab tabs 

centrally

 into the slots provided in the walkway.  With care solder one side to the walkway whilst keeping it 

square and then repeat for the other side.  Fill the remaining seams with solder 

2.

 

Adjust and twist the long hood shape to be square and true before proceeding to the next step 

3.

 

The long hood has two brass tabs that should be bent to approx. 60 degrees.  Slide the long hood into the walkway so the 
nose middle flat section sits flush with the end of the walkway 

4.

 

Note the long hood will sit on top of the walkway when soldered but also inline and flush with the inside etched hole 
through the walkway.  Using the MDF soldering aid push the upturned walkway with long hood assembly into the corner so 
that the tab butts up against the walkway stop and will not go any further.  Solder a small section and check that 
everything is good 

5.

 

Repeat for the other side tab and gradually push the loco body sides to match the cut-out profile of the walkway etch and 
solder in place but 

DO NOT SOLDER the tabs

 

6.

 

Now that the long hood is solder all around bend the tabs back and forth until they snap cleanly off and discard 

7.

 

Repeat a similar procedure for the short end nose (P5) section 

8.

 

Place the completed unit on a flat surface and check that the loco is not twisted.  Gently straighten if twisted 

 

Checking for squareness before adding the cowcatchers 

9.

 

Adjust/trim if necessary after trial fitting the cowcatchers (P8) to the headstocks - the fold line faces to the inside of the 
loco and are at the bottom.  Use Super Glue Gel for this procedure if your soldering skills are new.  With pliers, gently bend 
the lower portion at 30 degrees.  See prototype photos above or model below 

10.

 

Thoroughly clean the loco shell of any 

excess

 solder before attempting the handrails as its easier at this stage than later 

Adding details: 

1.

 

Glue (P9) 3D print exhaust into the ½ etched depression on the long hood matching the exhaust over the hole 

Rear of 
loco cab 

Summary of Contents for SDLoco3 2 Series

Page 1: ...anch lines and to replace the ageing K s and the newly arrived J class steam locos The 2nd series was constructed from June to December 1959 and when they entered traffic they were assigned all manner...

Page 2: ...re is a coloured picture of the parts to aid you All brass parts and tabs holding the parts to the etch should be trimmed back and filed smooth after removal The main mansard long hood has been perfor...

Page 3: ...can use filler for minor imperfections 2 Using the paper guides as spacers under each section solder each of the long hood handrails P4 into the holes provided It will be easier if you solder the 3 lo...

Page 4: ...t the long hood shape to be square and true before proceeding to the next step 3 The long hood has two brass tabs that should be bent to approx 60 degrees Slide the long hood into the walkway so the n...

Page 5: ...k of the handrail where it will attach to the headstock Clean any lumps from the faces of both units and sweat the handrail into position 6 Glue the 2 plywood steps P19 outside the door etch at both f...

Page 6: ...pplying an etch primer Some people skip the priming stage if they are using water based acrylics or use a sandblaster VR Blue and Gold era Steam Era diesel blue Cab roof loco shell and exhaust stack d...

Page 7: ...that the coupler can be pushed from the front into its final position on the loco 2 Drill 0 8mm holes for the coupler screws and attach the couplers which will then lock the body to the mechanism My c...

Page 8: ...m wide x 150mm long Use whatever measurements or scraps you have available T351 chopped valance Geelong loco 29 04 1989 Photo Chris Pearce T 353 between duties at Geelong 04 03 1989 Note the different...

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