4
5.
Cab:
1.
Fold lines are on the inside of the cab (P6). The main front of the cab has 2 high windows side by side and this goes
towards the short nose. Fold each of the sides 90 degrees and workaround until the 2 high windows of the cab rear meet
squarely in the centre. Butt solder the back 2 high window halves together forming the cab into a box shape. Solder along
the internal fold lines of the cab. Try not to fill the handrail holes in the fold line of the cab, which are just below the
window line. If you do just drill them out slowly with a pin vice
Cab roof:
1.
Depending on the era being modelled you can opt to have vigilance bumps on the cab roof (P7) or not. To create them,
whilst the cab is in the etch use a small blunt nail and push the 3 vigilance bubbles on the underside of the cab where the
fold lines are etched. There are 3 trial bumps for you to test your technique in the main etch just next to the cab
2.
Bend each side of the cab roof to match the cab formed in the previous steps. Fold lines are on the inside of the roof. Do
not solder the cab roof on as it glued on last after painting and windows have been inserted into the cab
Assembly of the main components to the walkway:
1.
Make sure that the staff exchanger recesses in the cab (P6) are pointing towards the small nose end of the walkway; insert
the cab tabs
centrally
into the slots provided in the walkway. With care solder one side to the walkway whilst keeping it
square and then repeat for the other side. Fill the remaining seams with solder
2.
Adjust and twist the long hood shape to be square and true before proceeding to the next step
3.
The long hood has two brass tabs that should be bent to approx. 60 degrees. Slide the long hood into the walkway so the
nose middle flat section sits flush with the end of the walkway
4.
Note the long hood will sit on top of the walkway when soldered but also inline and flush with the inside etched hole
through the walkway. Using the MDF soldering aid push the upturned walkway with long hood assembly into the corner so
that the tab butts up against the walkway stop and will not go any further. Solder a small section and check that
everything is good
5.
Repeat for the other side tab and gradually push the loco body sides to match the cut-out profile of the walkway etch and
solder in place but
DO NOT SOLDER the tabs
6.
Now that the long hood is solder all around bend the tabs back and forth until they snap cleanly off and discard
7.
Repeat a similar procedure for the short end nose (P5) section
8.
Place the completed unit on a flat surface and check that the loco is not twisted. Gently straighten if twisted
Checking for squareness before adding the cowcatchers
9.
Adjust/trim if necessary after trial fitting the cowcatchers (P8) to the headstocks - the fold line faces to the inside of the
loco and are at the bottom. Use Super Glue Gel for this procedure if your soldering skills are new. With pliers, gently bend
the lower portion at 30 degrees. See prototype photos above or model below
10.
Thoroughly clean the loco shell of any
excess
solder before attempting the handrails as its easier at this stage than later
Adding details:
1.
Glue (P9) 3D print exhaust into the ½ etched depression on the long hood matching the exhaust over the hole
Rear of
loco cab