3
6.
At each of the valance ends of the walkway (P1), a small flap should be bent towards the centre of the walkway at about a
45-degree angle. This angle is easy to follow as the flap bend should match the shape in the top of the walkway when
viewed from above
7.
Note the side part of the staircase is positioned away from the front/rear skirts of the headstocks on the
walkway.
Test fit a staircase (P2) and once satisfied with the fit and squareness, solder it into the walkway making sure
that the tab on the top slots into the hole provided in the walkway. Also, make sure the staircase is square and straight
about the front/rear walkway and the headstock skirts. Solder the lower step edge of the stair casing to the headstock
skirt. Where the tab of the stair casing (P2) comes through the walkway (P1), fill this with solder flush with the walkway.
Solder the opposite side of the staircase to where the valance flap meets the staircase. Repeat for the other 3 staircase
units (P2)
8.
Clean up any excess solder on the completed walkway and make sure the centre area is free from any etch holding tabs
9.
Make sure that the walkway is straight and flat. If not it can be twisted by using pliers/steel bars to achieve a
flat and square surface. You must achieve this as the entire superstructure relies on this being correct. Take
your time to achieve the end result.
Long Hood:
The long hood (P3) (Mansard sections) has been pre-formed and tack soldered to make construction easier for
you
1.
Complete the soldering of the nose to the long hood where the tack soldering has already been applied. If you can’t get a
clean solder to join around the end you can use filler for minor imperfections
2.
Using the paper guides as spacers under each section, solder each of the long hood handrails (P4) into the holes provided.
It will be easier if you solder the 3 longer legs of the handrail and then proceed to the others. The paper spacer should be
placed between the handrail and the loco body which creates a gap when soldered the handrails stand proud of the body.
Soldering should be from the inside of the long hood body
3.
Using pliers make a 2.5mm handrail using the 0.3mm wire provided and solder into the nose holes. Use a slither of paper
to space the handrail from the body and then clean the body up of excess solder
Short Hood:
1.
(P5) Fold the nose sides (but not the front) into a ‘U’ shape and solder inside along the main fold lines. The nose front
panel will be at 90degrees to the sides
2.
Using pliers bend the two side sections of the nose slightly down so they match the T class nose shape
3.
Using pliers bend the angled nose section down so that the bottom edges of the nose are in line with the bottom edges of
the main nose shaped and formed in step 2. The nose front should sit on the edges but not past the edges of the main
nose sides and then be soldered. If it does not the nose section may need more or less bending to achieve this. In
addition, you may need to push the nose front up towards the roof of the nose body with pliers but take care. When happy
with the overall shape, fill the gaps between the nose and the nose main nose body with solder. Using a file radius the
nose corners and sides to look similar to the real loco
4.
Using pliers make a 2.5mm handrail using the 0.3mm wire provided and solder it into the nose holes provided using a
paper spacer between the handrail and body
This edge up
against the
headstock
end of
walkway
VR Blue and
Gold era
walkway
shown here
