.
53.
Sand the leading edge of the wing round and sand the wing smooth all over.
54.
Measure and draw a line on the top of the trailing edge, 1/4" back from the forward top comer. Use a straight edge to
guide your knife while you cut the trailing edge from the wing. Each section should be flat on the building board as you cut
it free from the wing and your knife should be held 90 degrees to the building board. The pieces from the outboard panels
will make the ailerons and the piece from the center section will be grooved to accept the aileron torque rods.
55.
Cut the 1/8" sq. groove into the front of the center section trailing edge that you removed from the wing in the previous
step. Do not cut this groove in the ailerons.
56.
Slide the nylon bearing tubes over the aileron torque rods and then bend the ends 90 degrees to match the plan. Be sure
to make one right and one left hand. Cut the ends to the length shown on the plan.
57.
Fit the torque rods into the notches in the center section trailing edge. Cut notches into the top forward edge of the trailing
edge to allow clearance for the vertical ends. Carefully glue the bearing tubes into the trailing edge. Be careful not to allow
any glue to get into the inside of the tube. The aileron torque rods must rotate freely.
58.
Glue the center section trailing edge onto the center section of the wing.
59.
Trim or sand the bevel onto the front of the ailerons. Trim the ends of the ailerons so there is a 1/32" gap at each end
when held into position on the wing.
60.
Cut the hinge slots into the wing and ailerons and drill the 1/16" hole in the aileron for the torque rod. Test fit the ailerons
onto the wing. Cut a small groove into the front of the ailerons from the torque rod hole to the inboard end to allow the
torque rod to fit flush into the aileron and allow the aileron to contact the trailing edge of the wing.
61.
Test fit the landing gear wires into the landing gear blocks. Bend the wire so that the landing gear legs angle forward at the
angle shown on the plan.
Pre-Cover Assembly
62.
Glue the stabilizer into position on top of the fuselage.
63.
Moveable Rudder (4 channel)
Glue the base of the fin to the stabilizer.
Fixed Rudder ( 2 or 3 channel)
Glue the base of the fin to the stabilizer. Do not glue the lower end of the rudder to the fuselage.
64.
Make the rudder filler strips from the 1/4"x 3/4" x 2" block. Sand them to shape and then glue them into position.
65.
Bend the tail wheel wire to the proper shape for either the fixed rudder or the moveable rudder. If you are using a
moveable rudder, attach the tail wheel wire to the rudder at this time. If you are using a fixed rudder then your tail wheel
wire will be attached to the bottom of the fuselage after covering.
66.
Temporarily (do not glue) hinge the elevators to the stabilizer. If you are using a fixed rudder you need to spring the bottom
of the rudder to one side to allow the elevator joiner to slide through.
67.
If you are using a moveable rudder then cut a slot in the rudder and the lower fuselage for the lower hinge. Temporarily
(do not glue) hinge the rudder to the model.
68.
Mount the elevator servo to the fuselage side with servo tape. ( For the tape to stick securely you should lightly clean the
side of the servo with alcohol to remove any oil. Remove the paper backing from the tape and apply two strips of servo
tape to the servo. Remove the paper backing from the tape on the servo and lightly coat the exposed face of the tape with
thick C/A glue. Press the servo into position on the inside of the fuselage side and hold securely until the glue dries.) If you
are using throttle and/or rudder then attach these servos to the fuselage.
69.
Attach the control horns to the elevator (and to the rudder if moveable).
70.
Install the pushrods from the tail to the servos. You will have to remove the control horns to attach the "Z" bend end of the
pushrod to the horns. Attach the pushrods to the servos with servo connectors and trim the pushrods to length.